I really need help with my neon dodge it's jerking when I step on the brakes , please help some one?

Go get the brakes repaired!

It sounds as if your brakes are staying on. Normally one pushes harder on the brakes at first, and then reduces pressure as you slow down. But if the brakes stick, letting up won't help and the car will jerk to a stop. The most common problem with sticking brakes is from the pads not sliding properly. With only a single piston on calipers these days, they rely on the piston chamber and pads to be able to slide. Since the pad backing plates and the rails are steel, rust can cause binding. The solution is basically to just remove the pads and reinstall them, scrapping off any excess rust. But usually this will only effect one caliper, so the car is likely to pull to one side. The second most common brake sticking is from the caliper piston itself being corroded. There is a rubber boot around the piston, and it is supposed to expand and contract with piston movement, to keep water and dust out of the brake piston area. If it gets ripped, rust will seize the piston. You have to pop the piston out with brake pressure, clean the rust off/out, and replace the seals. Then bleed the air out, while changing the brake fluid. Again, likely to only effect one caliper, so will pull to one side. Less common is when the master cylinder is out of adjustment. The rod from pedal to master is adjustable length, and some free play is required, or else pressure pumped up in the master can not be released when you let off the pedal. Shorten the rod until there is some free play. This will effect all brakes, so there will not be any pull to the side. Additional comment: The other 2 answers should not be taken seriously. Obviously they were only trying to give you a hard time for some reason. But I don't know why because you asked a reasonable question. However, since you indicate you are going to take it to a repair business, there are a few things you should know. One of the biggest rip offs in cars repair is machining rotors. It is frequently recommended because the shop does not have to buy anything, so it is pure profit. But in reality it is usually harmful to your car. Very rarely should rotors ever be machined, because it can only be done once, and even after doing it once, the thinner rotors can warp much more easily. The only time rotors need machining is if there was bad metal on metal scrapping that badly tore up the surface. Rust and ridges are never sufficient to require machining. And also beware places that recommend replacing calipers over just cleaning any corrosion out. It is very cheap and easy to rebuilt calipers. The only time to replace instead of rebuilt is when the bleeder is so rusty that it breaks off.

Ok, there's a few things you'll need before attempting this repair. Here's the list of tools you'll need: 1) Left hander spud wrench. (17mm works best) 2) Right angle phillips scewr driver #3 3) Spanish speed wrench 4", 6" might work but it will be a tight fit. 4) 1 qt. blinker fluid. 5) 3 shnizzle dog cap screws Step one: Using moderate force, unscrew the muffler bearing with your LSR. Being carefull not to bust a nut. Now, gingerly rub the skinner knob with blinker fluid until it rises. Using your shnizzle dog cap screws, inset each one in the approprtiate holes to stop the leakage. Now comes the important step. After the nut comes off, use your right angle phillips screw driver to turn it all on.