Working Indica in side reins?
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Today a friend of mine gave me a bunch of tack including a cavesson, surcingle, side reins, etc. So I get the gist of how to use side reins, but I never really have before. I know I ...show more
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Answer:
Here's what I found about side rein adjustment online (I have never used them myself so I looked it up): Side reins are adjusted longer for less-experienced horses, and gradually shortened and raised higher (from point of shoulder up to the point of hip) as a horse becomes better trained. Side reins should never be so short that the horse's head is pulled behind the vertical. For green horses, the side reins should be adjusted so that the horse's head is approximately 4 inches in front of the vertical and the side reins are attached at a point level with the point of the shoulder. As the horse becomes more advanced and more physically developed, the side reins may be shortened so the head is nearly vertical to the ground. Side reins should not pull the horse in—they do NOT create collection. Rather, a properly longed horse will collect himself, and the shorter side reins will be the correct length for him to keep a contact with the bit. Short side reins should not be used for long periods of time. Side reins should usually be adjusted so they are the same length on each side, though in some cases, the inside rein may be slightly shorter, particularly with a horse that has previously been allowed to develop the habit of arcing its body away from the circle. It is considered correct to fasten the outside rein before the inside rein, similarly to the idea that a rider would take up outside contact before inside rein contact. It is best to make sure that both side reins are adjusted before attaching them to the bit, as it can be irritating to the horse to stand with one side rein attached while the handler is adjusting the other. Improper adjustment of side reins can cause a horse to go behind the bit, spoil the horse's training, and even cause the horse to feel trapped, leading to rearing and the possibility that the horse will flip over.
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Other answers
You actually want the outside rein slightly shorter to mimic pushing her into your outside rein from your inside leg and keep her from throwing her outside leg on the rail and collapsing onto her inside shoulder. One hole is usually sufficient. Side reins usually have a rubber donut (at least all the ones I've ever seen have). When you put them on put them onto the girth first and then attach them to the bit. There will be a little bit of tension when you put them on her but not so much that it's going to suck her chin into her chest. This is a constant connection, which is the same as your hands.
GOODD
I trained a Frisian horse for a lady. I got the job because the farrier couldn't trim her feet. Did all the ground work and she was ready to ride. I had this Frisian on voice and body language control... She would walk, trot, lope, stop, back, and reverse directions with no lead rope. I could ground drive this horse from behind using NO reins, just body and voice. Yes she did also work off the end of a lead/lunge rope also. She turned into a big "Love Bug", she just loved to be around people, and doing things. But since I was not a "Dressage" trainer she did not want me to ride her!....??? So she was done with me. Anyway it was time for this horses 'Currying' and she brought in a Dutch Frisian Trainer and I kinda secretly watched....It just broke my heart, I wanted to kick that guys a$$. He put her in side reins and lunged her then lunged her some more. The mare won the Currying but when the lady got her back she was dangerous to be around. She would pin her ears and flat come at you trying to bite and if you stood your ground she would rear up and try to paw you. I felt bad for the horse and offered to help for free but instead the lady sent her up north to a big dressage training facility to have her broke of her dangerous behavior and started. After a year and I'm sure 10 to 20 thousand dollars in training she got her horse back...now a green broke saddle horse. All that to say "I don't like side reins" ...not because they have no value, but because they are over used by some and have no "Feel" I have seen them used to ruin a horse. My 2 cents ... if you use them, use them sparingly. @<3 Fashion & Reining No worries... I will be the first to admit I know very little about side reins except what I've seen done by some, which probably was incorrect. In the disiplines I am involved in, side reins are rarely used, although some tie up the reins to their saddle and lunge, but not as precise as the real thing. I have tried it, but when I rode it felt like the horse automaticly assumed the position and there was no communication thru the reins. Like I already said my advice on this is worth about 2 cents!
sparrow
They should be at a length that when she stands relaxed, they are just getting a 'tension' along when done up. Gradually you can shorten this up and couple of holes to achieve a higher outline. Don't put your inside one shorter, it teaches the horse to 'crick' its neck to one side. Allow her to drop the tension on the inside rein when she needs to instead, this should make sure she won't fall in through her inside shoulder. Remember not to tuck the end of the leather through the buckle, so you can undo them in an emergency, because I can guarantee you won't get near the bit. Take it slowly and have someone experienced watch you.
Make them just loose enough that she can feel they're there, but not feel at all restricted by them. When she's just standing still, they should have a little slack in them. No, it shouldn't be any shorter at all. If anything, it should be looser. Your horse should step into the outside seat, leg, and rein, therefore your horse turns off of the outside rein, not the inside. The inside rein should only be used to provide inside leverage so that your horse goes more sideways, more into the outside aids, then it should be released.
keepumguessin
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