How do you link photos to a question?

Help Making HDR PHOTOS?

• Help Making HDR PHOTOS? I have a Canon Rebel T1i with a 55mm lens, a tripod, and Photoshop CS5 Ive always liked HDR photography and just realized i can do it myself with the tools i have. i am very familiar with Photoshop and my camera (i'm a college art student) i made my first attempt at HDR and you can see it here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/60892262@N0%E2%80%A6 they came out OK i feel like but they look over produced and don't have the wow factor, sharpness, and color most HDR i see (http://www.smashingmagazine.com/ 2008/03/… I Took multiple photos in f10 at various shutter speeds to get various exposures, then i took the photos and in photoshop clicked Edit>Automate>Merge to HDR Pro. from there i messed with the different sliders to get the pictures you see there in my Flickr. i just read somewhere its better if you shoot in camera raw mode. is this true? is photoshop the right tool for this or should i download another program for better pictures? if you could please walk me through the steps you take to get really good HDR photos and let me know what you think is the best program to be using (preferably free but it doesnt have to be) it would really help me out. let me know exactly what exposures make for a good HDR what manual camera settings and how to adjust it once on my computer. i really want to pursue this type of photography Thanks In Advance PS don't just send me a link. i would really like to hear from someones personal experience, and again don't be afraid to get too technical. i know my way around Photoshop and cameras. if u do this ill deffinatly give you best answer 30 minutes ago -4 days left to answer. Additional Details another question I have is I took like 7 pictures at dif exposures (1 perfect 3 overexposed and 3 under) and put them together. is more better in this case? Or do I only need a few dif exposures? The way I did the photos was the first one I metered perfectly then using that as a referance I kept changing the shutter speed to make the meter read +1 +2 +3 & -1 -2 -3. Is that right? Also what kind of thing should I look for when I'm looking for "hdr material" I'm just now reading about "bracketing" I'm having trouble understanding what they mean by it. Is it simply just doing a range or different shutter speeds? Also will shooting in raw actually make a difference once the files are merged in photoshop?

• Answer:

  I can not open either of your links so forgive the generalizations. First, you get a better HDR with a scene that demands it. A good amount of deep shadows, a good amount of bright highlights, and a good amount of mid-tones. A well illuminated shot that can be captured with a single frame is not likely a candidate for dramatic results (or an equally illuminated dark scene). Raw gives the ability to precisely adjust the area of the photo that is in the best exposure range. JPEG compression makes some assumptions that may not be helpful to your final product, but they can also be used. By using RAW you are dealing with the maximum amount of data, and each pixel is represented. At the final product, you control the compression. I have used three to seven photos. A friend often shoots 12-15. Having more gives you more options, you can select or deselect Individuel photos in the preview and see what, if anything, each brings to the final image. Along with the number, is the range. I usually go for a range of 4 (exposure values) +2,0,-2. I have recently started using a range of 6 and I may adjust the center of the range a couple EVs +/- depending on the scene. My friend often goes to a range of 10. Try to find a light colored (white is perfect) building with a large open door. A relatively dark interior with a bright sun on the exterior. Make a 2 shot HDR by setting your meter for the interior for one shot, and setting it for the exterior for the other. (Hint: get the exposure settings first by filling the frame with the specified part of the photo, then set on the tripod and take the two photos. One should be pretty bleached out on the exterior, but perfect for the interior. The other will show a black interior, but a nicely exposed exterior, and they should combine easily, even as a JPEG A good alternative is a corner shot of a building, with one side in sun and the other in shade. Take the two perfect exposures. Then, without moving the camera, reset the exposure value to 0 for the entire scene and take enough photos at 1 EV increments to include both of the earlier exposures. Go back and play with PSCS5 and see if there is a difference between 2 photos and the 7 or more likely with the second technique. Also, there is no disgrace in trying some of the HDR presets at the top if its control window.