Is it hard to breed zebra danios?

How to breed Zebra Danios?

  • Ok I have 6 Zebra danios. Just got them around 4th September this year Can I get them to breed somehow? Also, how do I sex them? Thanks :)

  • Answer:

    Zebra fish are easy to sex if you know what to look for. The males are more streamlined in appearance that the females and the females have a more compressed looking body, not to mention the extra girth that they have at their abdomen when loaded with eggs after conditioning. Place about a dozen mature (about the size of 1 1/2 inches) Zebrafish in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. Make the PH 7.0 or neutral at this point and temperature at 72-74 degrees F.(You will lower the PH and raise the temperature when you are ready to breed them.) For conditioning, feed them a variety of frozen and flake food 3-5 times a day until you see that the females load up with eggs and can surely tell males from females. This should take 2-3 weeks. For breeding purposes you will need a 5 1/2 gallon tank, 25 watt submersible heater, air stone supplied with air from a vibrator pump (you won't set up the air stone until the fish have laid eggs) and enough marbles to place on the bottom of the tank to a depth of 2 1/2 inches deep across the whole tank bed. Fill the 5 1/2 gallon tank with a water line about 2 - 2 1/2 inches higher than the marble substrate. Set the PH at 6.6 with a water temperature of 78 degrees F. Keep it there. Since Zebra fish breed in schools, select two or three trios of breeders, 2 males to one egg rich female. Having this ratio of males to females will ensure the fertilization of the eggs and stimulate the breeding process by males and females ready to spawn turning on the other breeders to spawn. Once in the breeding tank if properly conditioned, the fish should breed within a few days. If they don't, raise the temperature a few degrees to 80 degrees F and change 5% of the water. Wait another day, change another 5% of the water and raise the temperature to 82 degrees. The third day and there after just do the 5% water change. Keep feeding them 4-5 times a day until they spawn. Once the fish are in breeding mode, the whole school spawns. The eggs are dropped by the females and the males fertilize them as they drop. They drop Into the marbles. Since Zebrafish will consume there on eggs while breeding, the marbles and the low water line are there to prevent them from doing so. The eggs will drop down through the marbles, bouncing their way down to the bottom of the tank off the marbles where the adult breeders can't get them. Once they start breeding it only takes an hour or so for the females to noticeably look thin and streamlined due to dropping their eggs. No rush to pull the breeders out for a few hours, the eggs are protected by the layer of marbles. Once you are satisfied that the fish are done breeding and the females have no more eggs, net the breeders out and place them back into the conditioning tank, place an airstone in the tank set to slow bubble and 2 drops per gallon of methlene blue or acraflavin fungicide. It will take about 10 days for the eggs to hatch and fry to become free swimming. They will find there way through the marbles on their own so just watch and wait. When you see them swimming around, add 1/2 quart of water a day of same quality and temperature to the tank to a normal 5 1/2 gallon water level. This will take a few days. When you reach the right water level, add a sponge filter. Change no more than 5% water a day to keep things fresh. For a few days after the fry become free swimming, they won't need to be fed. They are supplied by nature with an egg sack of which they derive nourishment for a few days to get a head start in life. When the egg sack in the belly region disappears, they can eat. Zebra Danio fry are too small to eat any kind of commercial fish food, there mouths are too small. They eat Microscopic live organisms or Infusoria. You can buy Infusoria tablets at your aquarium shop. You just drop a tablet in the tank and in a few hours, your tank will be infested with live microscopic live fish food for the fry. I would pop a few of these tabs in the tank while the fry still have their egg sacks. Another thing you could do is place a 2x2 inch piece of lettuce in the tank at the egg sack stage. This will also produce live food for the fry. In about two weeks time they will be ready to eat live or frozen baby brine shrimp and fine flake food. Wait about a month after the free swimming stage, then transfer them into a 20 gallon rearing tank. Feed them brine shrimp or crumbled flakes. Best of luck, Rose

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Other answers

You don't need to sex them to spawn them. They all spawn together at once. The males are slimmer with straighter horizontal stripes than the females. The traditional way is to set up a bare tank, a ten would be big enough for 6 zebras. Put marbles three layers deep in the tank. No filter and definitely no food. In the evening put all of the zebras in the spawning tank. Late the next morning, remove them, putting them back in their old tank or wherever you wish to move them now. Down on the bottom, out of reach of the adult breeders, will be tiny clear fish eggs. Set this tank in a very dark spot, adding a few clumps of live Java moss from another tank. Once the fry start swimming around, they will feed off microscopic life such as rotifers and paramecia. Then you can start feeding them microworms until they are large enough to eat flake food. Be sure to remove all the marbles before feeding them flake food or it will sink down and rot, ruining the water quality. A newer method is simpler. Instead of the marble layer, you make a box out of plastic canvas (craft or fabric store) clipped together with small cable ties or nylon yarn that fills the top half of the ten gallon tank and clips over the side. It is easy then to lift out the breeders when their job is done. You can see the eggs better. The adults often figure out how to charge across the marbles creating a current that draws eggs up within eating range, and the plastic box makes that impossible.

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