What type of training techniques do you think works best?

It depends on the dog and the training that you are trying to accomplish. I use many different methods to teach a behavior and then proof it with physical corrections. A dog needs and has a right to know what will happen, all the time, every time it refuses to perform a behavior it already knows. As far as all the positive methods that are the new wave of training out there, well, I would LOVE to have one of those people explain to me how they proof their dogs and maybe even compare dogs trained by traditional methods to those trained by the new, all positive style. Hope I helped!

Firm and constant training is the key! I can't say a particular method because what works for one don't won't necessarily work for the other.

After working with Oooodles of dogs of different breeds, I know so much depends on the breed, ( or temperament)and what you are striving to accomplish. For good companion dogs, (or agility, freestyle, etc) I find that clicker training ( modified to skip the clicker..lol) works the best/easiest. http://www.clickerlessons.com/ If you were field training a bird dog, you may need the remote collar. Working dogs require different methods for different jobs. However, I , myself never use pain or threat of pain for any training. If one must resort to pain to get control, they haven't found their dogs motivator, nor how to communicate effectively. Each dog has its own motivator. and every dog has one. There is really no right or wrong, unless the method is brutality. There are as many ways to raise a dog as there are to raise children. Consistency is the real factor. ( whether dogs or children)

Doesn't matter the method, be consistent, be positive and keep the training in sort sessions if your dog is young. Add: Ulva, what's the problem with June 1st?

personally....i think alot depends on the dog as to what TOOLS you use, btu methods are all the same(for me and my multi dog household) 1. Learning phase. marker training(or clicker training, i hate the "click", so i use the word "yes" and give reward) 2. Correction phase AFTER your dog knows what something means, you correct to fit the crime, AHHHHH!!!! means "watch it dog,i wouldn't do that...." there are physical corrections: collar pop, prong collar pop, remote collar stimulation, withholding treats.... 3. Distraction phase start adding distractions, go to the park, around kids and other animals, traffic, gunshots, etc and do your OB exercises there. the distraction phase is kinda like stating over again, you will have to "reteach" somethings....

Well I think it is entirely dependant on the dog. My beagle is extremely responsive to food rewards. As soon as he sees me with a treat I have his full attention for the next half an hour or so. He learns new tricks in a matter of minutes with this type of reward system too, so I’ve found it to be really effective. My lab on the other hand is almost completely different. He’s a pat-a-holic – addicted to pats! I adopted him when he was 7 months old and he hadn’t been taught anything. I tried teaching him several things using the same food reward system as I had used on my beagle with virtually no results. Then one day I was with my beagle telling him to do “high-fives” and my lab was just looking on. After a while I turned to my lab and said “high-five” and to my bewilderment, he actually did it! I gave him heaps of affection afterwards and now whenever I say “high-five” he’ll do it. I’ve tried doing it with a food reward, but he ends up getting so excited about the potential for food that he completely ignores me, so I’ve stuck with the pats. That’s just been with tricks and commands. With toilet training, I’ve just used a consistent, “take them outside every few hours, to the same spot, and reward” technique. Although my dogs are still puppies, it seems to be working quite well. I’ve never used a crate. I think with trick/command and toilet training, you should establish what it is that motivates your dog – whether that be a favourite toy, food, or pats – and work from there. Be consistent and persistent and you will see results. Don’t chop and change between techniques – that will confuse your poor dog. Also, you should always ensure training = fun for your dog. Training should never be done when you are in a bad mood, and you should never ever punish your dog if he/she doesn’t get the trick straight away. It should be an enjoyable and rewarding experience for both you and your dog. I love training!

I use CONSISTENT positive reinforcement with occasional corrections after the dog understands what I want it to do (since it isn't fair to correct if they don't understand what I want them to do). Food can be a good motivator but I'm careful not to get to the "bribing" that many fall into (the dog will only do what you ask if food is involved), and typically only do this when first learning a command, after that they are expected to do what I ask because I ask them and they are praised for complying. I also try to base the style and duration of training on the particular dog I'm working with (my Border or my GSD). What works for one dog doesn't necessarily work for another and how long one dog can pay attention isn't the same as another, just like with people.

I believe that training deals with both positive training methods and also correction as well. I first train my dog with food, she has a lot of food drive, then I transition towards more distraction like say the park and if she doesn't listen, I correct her. I believe using this method teaches the dog the fastest way but also teaches them to listen to you no matter what.

I think P+ training is best.