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How to split coaxial cable tv?

Cable tv experts: how do you TEST those CABLE LINE SPLITTERS, the ones that split the cable to go to 2 tvs?

  • so i have a bunch of these all over the house, and i know that every time a tech comes out if the picture is not clear, the first thing they do is change those splitters. but how do i test these things with a electronic tester? i know i could run lines to 2 tvs, but there must be an easyer way thanks! oh, and is there better ones (brands) than others?

  • Answer:

    There is a 3.5 DBmv loss going through a two-way splitter. NOT 6. On a 3-way splitter, there is a loss of 3.5 dbmv on one port with a 7dbmv attenuation on the other two ports. The 3.5dbmv loss is across the spectrum. Cable companies are required to provide enough signal from the "tap" to feed two televisions. However, you should usually have enough signal to feed 3 or 4 tv's in your home. Given that you have the average cable drop from the tap to your ground block at the side of your home. The average drop runs anywhere from 75' to 150' to your home. Should your line be too long from the pedestal or telephone pole then a "mini amp" should be installed at the ground block to ampify your signal either 10 or 20 dbmv. If the splitters being swapped out by the CATV technicians are outside then you have to find the reason why they are constantly going bad. Maybe you have water hitting it too much and it may need better protection like under the deck or some silicone to protect it. If the splitter is inside then it should not be going bad. If so, it could be possible that you have a bad groun on the TV and it is sending voltage back through the coax (riding on the center conductor) and frying the splitters. This can be tested using a voltage meter and checking for AC current on the center conducter at the splitter (the cable going to the television). In rare instances, you may find 30 to 80 volts AC coming from the TV. To test the spare splitters that you have, you would use a RF meter to test the outputs. First, you have to measure the RF level going into the splitter then measure each output. This using the loss values I provided above. My suggestion, call for a service call and ask the technician to read the signal levels at your ground block and any splitters that you currently have in place. Log them for your records. Also, you will find the signal goes up during the cold times of the year and back down as the weather warms up again. The amplifiers on the trunk and feeder lines in the cable system have automatic gain controls however, it is not perfect. So you may add another 2 or 3 TVs in your home but to find the pix suffers as the weather gets warmer. Cable companies usually charge for mini amps to be installed at your home.

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There is a 6db loss through a two way splitter. You need a Field strength meter to test the loss. If you have a good picture on the one ty a splitter should be OK. The TV signal coming from the cable co. should at least 10db and zero db should not be too bad.

Billy Butthead

Splitters are mostly mechanical in nature and usually don't go bad. What you want to look at is the cable and the connector on the end of it. A typical RG-6 cable with an F connector should look like this: The center of the cable should be solid and extend approximately 3/8" from the end of the connector. Looking inside the F connector, you should see a white insulator protecting this copper cable from shorting to the F connector itself. No braided cable shield should be exposed. If this is not the case, here is how you can repair the bad connection: Get a package of either screw on F connectors, or crimp style F connectors for the diameter of cable you are using. If you use the crimp style, you are going to need a crimp tool as well. Cut the old connector off the cable. About 1 in from the end, use a knife to cut around the outer plastic covering. Be careful not to cut the braided copper wires inside! Pull off the plastic cover. Separate the braided copper wires then twist them together in a "pigtail". Cut off the exposed metal foil shield. Cut off the white plastic insulation to expose the inner wire core, leaving about 1/8" of white plastic insulation. This reduces the risk of the braided copper wires touching the inner wire core which must never happen! Push the copper pigtail back over the outer sheath and screw an 'F' connector over it as far as it will go, holding it with a piece of cloth. Make sure that the inner wire core can not touch the braided copper wires. Cut off the exposed pigtail. Use sharp cutters to cut the inner wire core to leave about 3/8" exposed. Make this cut at a 45 degree angle to make a point. This makes it easier to push the wire into a connector without risk of damage or bending the wire. Be careful not to cut yourself on this sharp point! By the way, the best splitter I have seen so far is below....

shake_um

There is a device that they use, similar to radar, except with cable. The device sends signal out, and the cable signal, if present, pushes it signal back with a degree of force. If no cable signal is present, the technician has to check whether it is a cable line problem or a cable box problem. If the line is the problem, they have to replace the whole line, and if the box is the problem, they are going to have to figure out if there is outside interference.

Brad

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