I have 1970 volkswagen beetle thats ben sitting for 5 years it has a 1600cc engine and my poor bug needs a oil?

I don't know your experience level so I'm writing this as if you have never played with a VW engine before. Most air cooled VW's used 30 weight non-detergent oil. (and require a change every 3000 miles if you want them to last.) Any name brand will work. High detergent oils aren't recommended as they will clean the gunk and carbon out that is keeping many of the normal VW engine leaks from appearing. Mulit-grade oils will work, but cost more for little help and it is difficult to find them in a non-detergent form. Make sure to get an oil change kit that includes the new screen plate gaskets (round paper gaskets with holes for the plate mounting bolts) and copper washer for the drain plug. (and a Chilton's, or even better, the best book I've found called "The Idiot's Guide to VW's " if you don't know how to do a VW oil change.) DO NOT use any gasket sealers like "Permagasket", etc. as they will make it harder to do future oil changes.The major auto parts stores carry "VW oil change kits" that have everything needed in a single box/bag. Some sell kits that will do several oil changes. Follow the manual step by step to make sure you put the gaskets in the right places. The VW doesn't use an oil filter, but has a screen above the plate that mounts the drain plug. (I say above as it is on the bottom of the engine.)You need to remove the drain plug, drain the old oil, clean the plug, remove the round cover, clean the screen that comes out with it, replace the screen and cover using new gaskets, replace the drain plug with a new copper washer and fill with oil. Normal VW capacity is less than 4 quarts, but many people have installed after market oversized oil sumps (oil pans) that increase the oil capacity, so add and check via the dip stick. Then run for a few minutes, shut it off and check again. A full supply of clean Oil is critical in a VW engine. It may be called "air cooled", but most of the cooling is done by the oil. Remember that the bolts are all metric and use the correct size wrenches so as to not round the bolt heads. They are "close" to SAE sizes, but not close enough to prevent rounding of the corners of the bolt heads. Vice grips, adjustable wrenches and other forms of "make shift" tools will also destroy the bolt heads! NOTE: The small bolts that hold the screen cover and the drain plug are torqued (thus the need for the manual) and will leak, or can damage the cover if not torqued properly. The small cover bolts can be snapped off quite easily if tightened too much. (That requires new bolts and lots of drill/bolt extractor work to repair!) It can be done without a torque wrench, but the difference between "snug" and damage isn't very great! A bug that has sat for that long should have 2 oil changes. The first before being run and the second a 100 miles later to remove the crud that has collected over the years and has now broken loose due to being run and thus contaminating the oil. Start off driving gently and build up to full power operation over a few days to let any internal corrosion wear off. I've done this with air cooled VW's that have sat for 20+ years with no problems, but look it over really good after a few hours of operation to make sure no gaskets/seals have dried out during storage and have started leaking. (especially the "O" rings at each end of the push rod tubes, as they are the most common leaks found on VW's.)

I'll add my 2 cents in here as well. before you start it but after you change the oil take out the spark plugs and crank it over. Taking the plugs out will allow the engine to turn fast enough to pump oil into all of the engine. This will avoid what is called a dry start. Your car will like this. Put the plugs in and then start it up. Happy motoring! try www.thesamba.com for parts and forums on keeping your ride alive.If you change the plus do not use platinum plugs they run too hot for that engine. Never use synthetic oil as it does not absorb and release heat like conventional oil.

that idiot's guide he's talking about- http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101 it's written by a guy named John C. Muir and many of his friends. if you love your bug, or any other elderly volkswagen for that matter, you will get this book. if you've never worked on one, or if you've spent years doing so, the book is still great to learn from, and it's got a bunch of really helpful illustrations.