Vauxhall cavalier running problem.

1994 Chevy 1500 running problem? Mechanics Please. its a toughy?

  • Ok so i have a 1994 Chevy 1500 350 5.7, 2WD and with over 340,000 km and it runs great when it does except for this intermitent problem (of course it never happens whe you take it to a mechanic) Prob taking a shot in the dark but ill describe the best i can, email me if you need more info please. please read through i would like to see how far this truck can get. the mechanics ive taken it to wont work on it because of the km.....(idiots) and i dont know enough. So first of all the truck really hates the cold, and when you start it in the winter it starts up and than revs way up to like 700 or even 1000 rpm and then dies, and when you start it up again after that the rpms will flucuate inbetween barley running and 1000 (sometimes higher) and then usually die, so you have to end up driving the thing to keep it from dying. the problem gets worse when it hits like -40 or below. (Also is there a way to tell if your block heater is working?) and it wouldnt stay running even when you were drivin it. also when you brake at stop lights it wants to die. As well as when you step on the throttle it doesnt react right away, its really annoying trying to get on the hwy, sometimes even when you floor it, there will be no power, and then all of the sudden it will jump and go. Ive been on the hwy and it goes from throttle to no power, power than no power, than power. Its better when it gets warmer out, im not sure if this problem is related but im sure it somehow is, because this is why i dont drive it anymore. sometimes when you go to brake, it doesnt. it only revs back up and pushes your throttle pedal back at you, thus you cant stop..... unless you quickly throw it into nutreal or slam really hard on the brake. this might have something to do with the cruise control though because it stopped working in the way that it wont come off cruise by tapping the brake (gotta use the switch) but i dont use cruise at all anymore. and it still does it. Its flippin scary. I havent had this problem in the winter it only came after last winter, and the truck has been parked for a while now. As well as like all those older trucks you can now pull the key out and it wont shut off until you step on the brake, or wait a min or two. Not sure if thats a symtom of problems described above. but its really no big deal. Its got a brand new battery. one mechanic hooked up his diagnostics computer and claimed to find nothing, even though the engine light malfunctions and comes on every now and then like only when it gets down to -40 or below, other than that ive never seen it on. other than the engine idle problem, (oh and if you wondering about that control valve ive replaced that already. did nothing) and the braking cruise malfunction everything else on the truck works, all the lights inside and out, and the power windows, radio etc. Also maybe i should mention even though the battery is brand new, the volt meter on the dash is generally always inbetween 7 and 14, not at 14 like it should be (at least thats what ive been told where it should be) I feel the engine would run great like when i bought it if it where tweaked somehow, because it is only intermitent (as well when the truck does get warmed up in the winter it still does the problems described above. so the engine being cold has got nothing to do with it, except for the fact, that the last few times i remember driving it the guage for heat makes it all the way up to 100 before the fan kicks in, i dont ever remember it doing that before. Thank you very much for helping me in my ventures here, i dont wanna here stuff like get a new truck or anything negative, i wanna fix it, it doesnt matter why to you, but its because they are nice trucks espesially the 94 year. so please be supportive. P.S. truck is parked in a field for winter, so anything you suggest ill let you know if it worked out when the snow disappears. again thankyou and email me with more questions if you need more info

  • Answer:

    Hey...ok.... You have several things you need to replace if u want it running great again. No ifs and buts. Replace the following parts. All vacume lines. Brake booster. Brake switch at the pedal. IAC- idle air control. empty a can of carb cleaner were the iac goes. Carb clean Tbi area and butterfly. Replace o2 sensor 1. It's near the exhaust manifold . Disconnect battery and ECM fuse while doing all this. Replace and clean EGR valve area and check EGR controling valve/solinoid. do this job in any order. When ur done, let me know and I will tell you more trouble shooting procedures.

Jake at Yahoo! Answers Visit the source

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If this truck runs this bad, IT IS SETTING CODES. You don't need any fancy machine to read the codes 95 and older have a ALDL Assembly Line Data Link terminal. It has two rows, Under the dash left side of steering column, Jumper the two upper right terminal, Now turn the key on, it will flash once then twice 3 times. A 12 code just means it working. Now all codes will be two numbers and flash 3 times then to the next one until it again flashes a 12 code, means its at the end of the codes. In addition to that i think you have some hoses leaking vacuum. Start there. I have a 94 Suburban

toomarilyn

Charlie seems to be on the right track, check the condition of the brake booster, but exactly which spark plug brand(champions run too cold in a GM) are you using? Is the gap intricately correct? Did you touch the rotor with your bare hands when you installed it? Has the air filter system been changed from factory? Did you check the TCC or clutch lockup curcuit? It seems that you have multiple problems going on at the same time. KM indicates that you live in Canada and may be the mechanics there feel that it's not worth saving, but I do. I used to live in AK, so cold is not a condition that is of much concern when it comes to a correct running vehicle. Another thing that concerned me in what you have written is that the amp guage is incorrect. You should have the charging system tested to see whether the alternator is putting out as much as is indicated or not. 1. if the truck starts revs then dies = problem 2.brake at stoplights and wont stop or dies = low vacuum or bad brake booster. = no acceleration until the vacuum comes back.(this is why we look in the vacuum system.) 3.customer complaint-pedal pushes back at them = Idle air control solenoid or related system. 4.can't stop or bump-push at stop = TCC(transmission clutch converter solenoid) or lockup solenoid. 5.can't stop cruise = cruise module or related system. 6.heat does not exceed 100 before fan kicks in. = bad thermostat or fan switch - check coolant satruation. Recomendaton Check the codes in the computer including the last known freeze frame data. check or change the brake booster or make sure that it's working correctly.(extreme cold check) check the entire vacuum system for leaks. check and clean the EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) valve and passage. clean and check the IAC(ilde air control) solenoid and passage check the TCC(transmission control) or lockup solenoid circuit check the cruise circuit change the thermostat and check the fan switch and the percent of coolant in the system.

Ted

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