What's a good BMX bike?

Whats a good bmx bike (OPEN READ DETAILS PLEASE)?

• Im getting a bmx bike and yea... i dont know what to get. What would be a good bike for me? I want one thats not heavy cuz i dont like heavy bikes but i want it to be strong. I want to do stuff like jump curbs.. and ramps and maybe dirt jumps.. and also just riding around doing wheely's and stuff. I dont know but if i get serious i dont want to have to go buy another bike right after so yea can you tell me? PLEASE DONT TELL ME ABOUT ALL THESE FRAMES AND FORKS OR WHATEVER CUZ I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS SO YEA!!! Just tell me a brand and maybe the model. ok thanks

• Answer:

  I work at a shop, and we sell some BMX bikes. You are going to want to buy a bike that is sold at a shop, regardless of the manufacturer. BMX bikes are pretty simple mechanically, but they need to be put togather by a shop mechanic, otherwise performance/durability and safety could be compromised. So, don't buy one online unless you plan on having a shop assemble it (Some bike companies void the warranty if the bicycle isn't assembled by a shop.) - Plus, most shops, including the one I work at, will do things like give a free tuneup or ajdustments for a period of time if you buy the bike from them (our shop also does free flat fixes for 3 years). Department store bikes are a HUGE no no. It would be easyer just to throw your money in the trash can and save the trip to big box mart. That being said, if you are looking for your first BMX bike and don't want to replace it too soon down the road, a better than base model should be good. We carry Haro (mostly entry level), and some Eastern and various brands. I know you don't want to hear details, but I am going to list them. You want a bike that has: -At least a full or mostly cro-moly frame (for lightness and strength) -One that has the oversized 14mm axels in both the front and rear. -If you are a big kid, you want one with a stronger rim, possibly double walled -Something that doesn't have the american bottom bracket (the part where the crankarms attach and rotate around). The American bb is very heavy, something you are not looking for. Spanish and other types of bb's are all fine really (although you will hear many people saying that one is better than the other) -As an option, you can get a wheel w/48 spokes, instead of the weaker 36 hole spoked wheels that come on some bikes. The only disadvantage is that the 48 spoked wheels are heavier. -something that has the sealed bearing hubs for durability. (If you check to make sure that your hubs are tight, you don't have to have this, as bikes that have these hubs cost some $$$) -Something with the micro-drive style drivetrain (using a smaller front and rear sprocket to cut down the profile, while getting more or less the same gearing. Also lighter. Uses cassette style rear hub.) -If you aren't grinding and aren't using pegs to stand or do tricks on and such, then don't get a bike with them, or have the shop take them off. Just more weight and stuff to mess with. -Something with cro-moly bars (to save weight and to be stronger) If you are reading all of this and thinking WTF is he talking about, Don't dispair- A good saleman will know all about these things or will be willing to find them out if he/she values you as a customer. If you plan on getting a bike to do some jumping with and want it to last a long time, then it is essential that you get a bike with these specs, or something close. Otherwise, you could have some mechanical problems. There is one more thing. Sizing. The bikes will vary a little bit in sizing (on BMX bikes, it is the length of the top bar). Top bars for adults can vary roughly from 18-19 inches in lenght to 21-21.5 inches in length, although most are 20-21". The only way to know what is right for you is to ride them and see what you think. No biggie though, the salesman should be able to help you with that also. Some popular bikes that we sell are the Haro F4, and X3 models. Cheap, and durable. Fits most, if not all the requirements I have listed though. But, you don't have to go with Haro. Eastern or any of the other companies are fine too. Good luck with finding your bike. It sounds harder than it really is.