Need advice with my PS3?
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I need help with my PS3 heating problem, so the story is: my PS3 has started overheating a year ago, it wasn't until the PS3 pop a massage saying that it i will have to shut down my PS3 to prevent damage to the hardware (I was playing Killzone 2), so I took it apart for the first time and saw that it was really nasty inside full of dust and well it was pretty dirty, it was obvious (to me) that all that dirt was the cause of the overheating, so i cleaned it and the system was fine for like a month (really quite and cool, like it should be) but then it started heating again, so i took it apart again and ths time i took part everything and got it clean from every corner, but the heating continue. about 4 months ago i found about about the thermal paste and based on the forums i read i bought artic sliver 5 thermel paste, and i opened up my ps3 again and appled the paste, fixed my ps3 for a week and then the overheating continued, i have aplayed the paste 3 times now and the problem continues, i know the paste has to be paper then in the CPU and GPU so i dont understand why its overheating after cleaning it 5 times and aplaying the paste 3 times. my PS3 is a 80gb FAT and i keep it in an open area where it would get air yet it doesn't seems to make a difference (i even made a lego base so the bottom part of the ps3 wouldn't get hot because thats the part it heats more). im going to disassemble it again and re apply the paste that i have left so i would like some tips on how to play it and i heard i need to press the motherboard to the heat dissipators.
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Answer:
just send it to get fixed. or get a new one. or buy a freezer and put it in there while you play.
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Other answers
As soon as I read that you have a Fat PS3 it's ovbious why it would have overheating problems. Trust me, just go get a Slim lol. Buy a brand new Slim. EVen if your 80GB is one of the PS2 backwards compatible models. This is why besides overheating: *NOTE: the Yellow Light of Death (YLOD) is a MAJOR hardware failure that can occur from overheating, HDD issues, CPU/GPU issues and other main component issues!* 1. The Slims are 33% smaller, lighter, quieter, faster and more efficient (efficient as in you'll save money on power bills compared to the Fat.) 2. Overall performance is far superior. 3. It is far less likely to overheat or get the *WHICH ALL FAT MODELS ARE OVERDUE FOR NOW AND ONCE THE SYSTEM GETS THE YLOD YOU CANNOT RETRIEVE OR RESTORE ANYTHING YOU HAD ON IT* 4. They have remade several PS2 favourites just for the PS3. They are available on both the PS Store AND on DISC versions (discs are Blu ray so it's designed for the PS3, They reformatted the games especially for the PS3. They will also say "PS3" on the game case. Both versions have better graphics up to HD 720p, support 3D (great for the Sly games), and support trophies. They're called "Collection." (examples include but are not limited to: Jak and Daxter Collection, The Sly Collection, Metal Gear Solid HD Collection, God of War HD Collection.) So seeing "Collection" you probably guessed that there's more than one game on the download or disc. Each one comes with the series for the most part (so at least 2-4 games on each download/disc.) Good deal. I myself have the Jak and Sly Collections on disc and its WAY better than it ever was on the PS2 because of all the things they did. They literally remastered every game. 5. If I wanna play a PS2 game I will use my PS2, it's not hard. And the PS2 playsPS2 games better than the PS3 ever did anyway because it's designed to play them. The PS3 had to have PS2 parts mixed in with PS3 parts which results in issues with PS2 games. PS3 games are designed for PS3 and PS2 games are designed for PS2. Its a very simple and awesome concept that works. 6. The Fat models are way more likely to get the YLOD. The Slim had a change made to the GPU. The original Fat models had their GPU running at 90nm and newer versions of the Fat would get it running a little less at 65nm. The first Slim had it reduced to 45nm, and the latest Slim model has it even less at 40nm (that is a very significant difference.) What does this mean? It means your PS3 is using way less power and won't die as easily or get the YLOD as easily. This is a HUGE reason why the Slims won't overheat easily or get the YLOD. 7. PS2s use standard DVD ROMs as their game disc of choice. The PS3 uses Blu Ray discs. The PS3 was DESIGNED to play Blu Ray, NOT DVD/CD ROMs. Playing those disc types on the PS3 is actually quite bad for it. It forces the system to work a lot harder than it has to (it spins the disc way faster and makes the laser move faster) with Blu Ray it won't even break a sweat so to speak as its designed for it. This is actually a HUGE reason for PS3's (even Slims) to overheat (which my own Slim has almost done on me because of a DVD ROM.) You would never expect it but it's true, so avoid playing anything but Blu Ray on ANY PS3 system. Not to mention that PS2 game discs are easy as hell to scratch/ruin compared to Blu Ray discs. They are very hard to scratch/ruin compared to any other disc. I think its painfully obvious why the Slim is way better than the Fat was. I don't need 4 USB ports either when I have chargers that plug in the walls to charge whatever I need to charge that's an accessory to my system. And the PS3 doesn't use as much power as the Fat despite being more powerful than the Fat, so if I wanted to I could easily buy a USB splitter for it. The Fat in its own right is great, but I'd pick a Slim any day PS2 backwards compatibility or not. That to me is useless when I (like most people) have a PS2. It could also be that the paste your using is low quality/grade paste. Try getting a better one if your just gonna take it apart again. Hope that helps.
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