Horse questions? Jdndjenwjwksnjenfjeksn?

Collection takes a long, long time to properly teach, and proper collection starts from behind. Once you get the horse stepping under himself and you achieve throughness, then the frame comes much more naturally. The method is to send the horse into your hand with your leg, not pull the face back to your leg. You can always improve a horse's jump, but his method will always depend upon his conformation. A horse with a steep angle to the shoulder won't jump as well as a horse with a nicely sloped shoulder (but it will have a nicer flat kneed trot). Working through gymnastics, bounces, over oxers, and steep crossrails will help improve the way a horse uses himself. There are a lot of different types of nosebands with many different uses and applications. Some are just there to look pretty, and some have a function (ie: To prevent the horse from crossing his jaw [flash] or running through the bridle [tack]). I remember reading somewhere that nosebands were originally used to prevent the horse, should he trip, breaking his jaw. If you're really interested in learning about nosebands, head over to the Chronicle of the Horse forums and search their old threads for "nosebands." Depends on the situation/horse, and whether or not it was turned out with another horse. Dry lots are typically smaller because they're easier to manage. I like a 60 x 60 pen. Hogwash. At least, the "modern" natural horsemanship. It has its place and application, but I have no tolerance for someone who is going to build an empire on it and exploit their horses and other people. You can pick up any dressage book and find "natural horsemanship" in it - even the ones from 30+ years ago. It's always been around, it was just never mainstream with a name lol That's called a "shank" bit. The longer the shank, the more leverage you have, and the more severe. If you're riding a horse with a large shank, then you should only use one hand on a loose rein (like you see western pleasure riders doing). I try to stick to boots made for jumping (open front type boots and ankle boots). I never jump in splint boots or those SMB boots. I'll jump in polo wraps, though. Turn on the forehand should typically be taught from the ground first. Use a riding crop and use the blunt end to represent your leg (or spur). Place it on the barrel near the flank and use a pulsating pressure (consistant pressure just lets them lean on it) until they step over and then release the pressure - ideally you want the back leg to cross over underneath the horse. Undersaddle, ask for a slight bend in the direction which you want the haunches to move (this makes it easier for the horse), move your leg back, and ask. Some horses pick it up faster than others :) Turn on the haunches is something that, if taught proper lateral work (yielding, etc.) generally comes naturally to the horse. Side pass doesn't mean much to me as an English rider, lol, but it's something that would come after the shoulders in and haunches in. Once they can do it on the rail, start asking off the rain, and voila! It's all about getting the horse to step under and across. Coolers, I use only when it's under 40 F, overcast and windy. The point of a cooler (or quarter sheet) is to help the muscles warm up and cool down properly. If you have a horse that is clipped, then it can be used to keep them warm. It also helps wick away sweat from the coat. It's a good thing to have handy in case your horse gets sweaty in the winter (maybe from colic, or from running like a maniac in the field for no reason - also known as my horse). It's not necessary to use a cooler, but always handy to have around. Spurs should only be used by a rider with an independent leg and seat. They're there to refine the aids. Using a spur to make the horse go faster or change gaits is incorrect usage: something like that is a training issue that needs to be corrected in another fashion. Spurs can be used, for example, to refine the aids for a flying change of lead, or for the turn on the forehand. The spur should always be the last resort. Calf, calf harder, light spur, drag the spur up the sides. If you're interested in learning more about riding, Effective Horsemanship by Noel Jackson is a great book, as is Riding Logic, by Museler. I suggest your lurk around the COTH forums and read and learn. Be aware, though, those people are professionals, so I don't advise anyone throw in their two cents unless they REALLY know what they're talking about. It's a great place to learn. Lots of knowledgeable people, and lots of different opinions that will allow you to see all the different sides and choose for yourself.

Collection takes a long, long time to properly teach, and proper collection starts from behind. Once you get the horse stepping under himself and you achieve throughness, then the frame comes much more naturally. The method is to send the horse into your hand with your leg, not pull the face back to your leg. You can always improve a horse's jump, but his method will always depend upon his conformation. A horse with a steep angle to the shoulder won't jump as well as a horse with a nicely sloped shoulder (but it will have a nicer flat kneed trot). Working through gymnastics, bounces, over oxers, and steep crossrails will help improve the way a horse uses himself. There are a lot of different types of nosebands with many different uses and applications. Some are just there to look pretty, and some have a function (ie: To prevent the horse from crossing his jaw [flash] or running through the bridle [tack]). I remember reading somewhere that nosebands were originally used to prevent the horse, should he trip, breaking his jaw. If you're really interested in learning about nosebands, head over to the Chronicle of the Horse forums and search their old threads for "nosebands." Depends on the situation/horse, and whether or not it was turned out with another horse. Dry lots are typically smaller because they're easier to manage. I like a 60 x 60 pen. Hogwash. At least, the "modern" natural horsemanship. It has its place and application, but I have no tolerance for someone who is going to build an empire on it and exploit their horses and other people. You can pick up any dressage book and find "natural horsemanship" in it - even the ones from 30+ years ago. It's always been around, it was just never mainstream with a name lol That's called a "shank" bit. The longer the shank, the more leverage you have, and the more severe. If you're riding a horse with a large shank, then you should only use one hand on a loose rein (like you see western pleasure riders doing). I try to stick to boots made for jumping (open front type boots and ankle boots). I never jump in splint boots or those SMB boots. I'll jump in polo wraps, though. Turn on the forehand should typically be taught from the ground first. Use a riding crop and use the blunt end to represent your leg (or spur). Place it on the barrel near the flank and use a pulsating pressure (consistant pressure just lets them lean on it) until they step over and then release the pressure - ideally you want the back leg to cross over underneath the horse. Undersaddle, ask for a slight bend in the direction which you want the haunches to move (this makes it easier for the horse), move your leg back, and ask. Some horses pick it up faster than others :) Turn on the haunches is something that, if taught proper lateral work (yielding, etc.) generally comes naturally to the horse. Side pass doesn't mean much to me as an English rider, lol, but it's something that would come after the shoulders in and haunches in. Once they can do it on the rail, start asking off the rain, and voila! It's all about getting the horse to step under and across. Coolers, I use only when it's under 40 F, overcast and windy. The point of a cooler (or quarter sheet) is to help the muscles warm up and cool down properly. If you have a horse that is clipped, then it can be used to keep them warm. It also helps wick away sweat from the coat. It's a good thing to have handy in case your horse gets sweaty in the winter (maybe from colic, or from running like a maniac in the field for no reason - also known as my horse). It's not necessary to use a cooler, but always handy to have around. Spurs should only be used by a rider with an independent leg and seat. They're there to refine the aids. Using a spur to make the horse go faster or change gaits is incorrect usage: something like that is a training issue that needs to be corrected in another fashion. Spurs can be used, for example, to refine the aids for a flying change of lead, or for the turn on the forehand. The spur should always be the last resort. Calf, calf harder, light spur, drag the spur up the sides. If you're interested in learning more about riding, Effective Horsemanship by Noel Jackson is a great book, as is Riding Logic, by Museler. I suggest your lurk around the COTH forums and read and learn. Be aware, though, those people are professionals, so I don't advise anyone throw in their two cents unless they REALLY know what they're talking about. It's a great place to learn. Lots of knowledgeable people, and lots of different opinions that will allow you to see all the different sides and choose for yourself.

1. There are several ways which a horse can be encouraged to move in a frame, but few ways result in proper collection. The most important thing in collection is that the horse cannot carry themselves properly if they don't have the strength, so building the right muscles is key. It takes a lot of time. Real exercise is essential, the horse needs to have strong hindquarters so that they can effortlessly carry weight on the back end (since horses naturally carry more weight on the front, it takes real work getting them to build and move effectively). The best exercises for working muscles in the hindquarters is working on hills at a walk and trot; they need to walk up and down them. The horse must also have a strong back, to properly round and carry weight. Working back muscles can be done by trotting poles laying on the ground, to encourage the horse to lift their feet up and "prance" over the poles. This creates a rounding effect throughout the back and loin. 2. It depends on the horse's conformation. Not all horses can achieve the right form over fences, and it largely depends on the shape and size of the forelimb as to how they shape up. Since I'm not really sure on jumping specifications or front limb confo., here's an article. http://www.jwequine.com/pdf/hunter_or_jumper.pdf 3. Not all do. Nose bands, or cavessons, prevent the horse from getting the bit out of their mouth, and throwing the bridle off. Not all bridles have them (many western ones don't). It doesn't act to keep the mouth closed like a flash band does, but it will keep the bridle on the horse's head. A throatlatch by itself, which goes behind the jowls, doesn't always ensure that the bridle will stay on if the horse shakes their head violently. 4. Depends on how much work the horse gets. If they're routinely exercised and worked well, small paddocks usually suffice. While not *ideal*, many horses are kept in relatively small areas (these are typically called "runs"), but are provided ample food, water, and exercise. IMO these situations shouldn't be permanent, but numerous barns operate this way. I have heard of people keeping horses confined in stalls 24/7, kept in 20x60 runs, in one acre paddocks... You name it. Ideally, for a stress-free and realistic environment, a horse should have enough room to move about freely and self-exercise unless otherwise called for. Even if they have hay it's my opinion they need enough room to get up to a continuous gallop -- which means they can run from one end to the other, turn around, and run back without stopping the gallop. Just my opinion though. IMO there's no set, defined space requirement to keep a horse, because it depends on what they feel comfortable with, what the living situation and facilities entail, their exercise and diet, and just lots of things. I wouldn't frown at a 20x60 run if the horses were exercised twice or more daily, and their run and stall kept impeccably clean. 5. My definition of "natural horsemanship" would be... A gimmick. This way of training horses is nowhere near new, it's been around for eons, and you've got handsome young foreigners trying to make it seem impressive and special and magical, when it's not. It's all common sense. Even in classical training there are "natural" methods implemented. Just because they don't use rope halters and carrot sticks doesn't mean it's not proper -- or natural -- training though. 6. There are many different kinds of bits Western riders use, but the style in which you're describing is called a "curb" bit. Curbs are shanked. Any bit, whether it has a broken/jointed port, is a curb if it has leverage, which is what the shanks are used for. The shanks make it so that when pressure is applied to the rein, the cheek pieces are pulled, applying pressure to the poll. The pressure is amplified, on both the poll and in the mouth, because of the leverage. The pressure from a curb bit can be ten times more pronounced than a snaffle, because it requires so little pressure to illicit a reaction from the bit. Let me see if I have enough characters to keep going. (I don't, so I'll post more from my second account.)

7. Again not that into jumping so I can only speculate that the effects other boots have on the tendons and ligaments would not be appropriate for jumping. They offer varying types of support, so logically what works for one discipline would not be interchangeable with another due to the varying points of stress the horse's leg would take. 8. (Answering based on how I trained my horses. Not all training methods work for every horse so frequently there's trial and error.) a. Turning on the forehand would first be taught by applying pressure in the flank area and encouraging the horse to pivot, however that may be for the horse. For example, for my fast learner a touch to the flank and asking him to step in with pressure to the halter got him to pivot. b. Similar to the above, but with pressure in the shoulder area (in the girth/elbow area). Instead of directing the horse to pivot in by applying pressure to the halter, you would do the opposite and move them away from you instead. c. After teaching the above I put them together to teach the side pass on the ground, by applying pressure to the elbow region and the flank. To keep their heads still I kept the lead rope firm so they wouldn't be inclined to look one way or the other while moving. It may be easier to teach this starting against a wall, especially if the horse wants to step forward or backward to evade. There are other movements in relation to these as well, such as the shoulder in, shoulder out, and half pass, which use similar methods of training. 9. Spurs are used as a minimal, but direct aid. The cue from a spur should be gentle. Though they're seen as tools to grab the horse's attention, to get them to do fast, fancy things, they are used for quite the opposite. Spurs are delicate aids used to cue very precise movements from the horse that otherwise would be confusing and difficult for the horse to read. I should have not such giant answers.

7. Again not that into jumping so I can only speculate that the effects other boots have on the tendons and ligaments would not be appropriate for jumping. They offer varying types of support, so logically what works for one discipline would not be interchangeable with another due to the varying points of stress the horse's leg would take. 8. (Answering based on how I trained my horses. Not all training methods work for every horse so frequently there's trial and error.) a. Turning on the forehand would first be taught by applying pressure in the flank area and encouraging the horse to pivot, however that may be for the horse. For example, for my fast learner a touch to the flank and asking him to step in with pressure to the halter got him to pivot. b. Similar to the above, but with pressure in the shoulder area (in the girth/elbow area). Instead of directing the horse to pivot in by applying pressure to the halter, you would do the opposite and move them away from you instead. c. After teaching the above I put them together to teach the side pass on the ground, by applying pressure to the elbow region and the flank. To keep their heads still I kept the lead rope firm so they wouldn't be inclined to look one way or the other while moving. It may be easier to teach this starting against a wall, especially if the horse wants to step forward or backward to evade. There are other movements in relation to these as well, such as the shoulder in, shoulder out, and half pass, which use similar methods of training. 9. Spurs are used as a minimal, but direct aid. The cue from a spur should be gentle. Though they're seen as tools to grab the horse's attention, to get them to do fast, fancy things, they are used for quite the opposite. Spurs are delicate aids used to cue very precise movements from the horse that otherwise would be confusing and difficult for the horse to read. I should have not such giant answers.

How would one go about teaching their horse to move in a collected frame? Being truly collected means that a horse is powering from their hindquarters, soft in the bridle, and rounding out it's back. It takes a LOT of muscle strength and it takes a while to build up enough stamina to be able to do it correctly. The way my trainer and I do it is to take the slack out of the reins, enough to be slightly uncomfortable, and to close your leg completely on the horse so that it doesn't stop. When the horse gives by rounding it's back and dropping it's head, I keep if going only for a couple of steps at the beginning and then I give them all of the slack back for a good halfway around the arena, then repeat. My gelding and I have been working on this for about 2 months now and he's to the point where he collects nicely at the trot and lope for about 3 strides (more if I ask him to, but he's still in the phase of getting in shape so I'm taking it slow) and then he gets his head for about 6 strides, then he get's collected again, etc. It takes experience, but in time you won't rely on looking at the horses head to see if he's collected or not (which isn't even an accurate way to tell because some horses figure out that all they have to do is move their nose to escape the bit pressure and with a novice rider they will think that it's collected, when in reality, it's not engaging at all), and you'll be able to feel your horse round out under you. When you teach a horse to jump, how do you encourage them to have a nice scopey round jump? Not a jumper, sorry. Why do people have nose bands on their horse with the bridle? Several reasons. Number one, it's used to prevent the horse from opening it's mouth, at least not enough to evade the bit's pressure. It's also used as an attachment for other tack like standing martingales, and it's also used to keep the horse from pulling when a rider wants a bit more control but doesn't want to put a harsh bit on. How much room would you say a horse needs if their only being fed hay? It depends on how much exercise it's getting. If you could write a definition of natural horsemanship what would it be? People who work with horses using methods similar to how lead horses act, and people who use pressure and release rather than force. I like some natural horsemen, I strongly dislike others. I'm very middle of the road. What is the bit called that you usually see western riders using? Where the side of the bit goes down past their mouth and the reins attach to that part if that makes any sense? What purpose does it serve? (sorry if that makes no sense) I think for all intensive purposes you're talking about a curb, though there are many shanked bits (the shanks are the pieces that hang down) shanked bits are used mostly when a horse is being ridden one handed using neck reining methods, because it relays the rider's commands (when the rider is experienced and knowledgeable) better than a bit with no shank. Is it ok to jump in boots that aren't jumping boots? (horse boots) or does it effect their movement? No boots should effect movement, if they did, I wouldn't use them. How do you train a horse to turn on the haunches/forehand and side pass? It all starts from the ground. Every time you ask a horse to move over with your finger for example, you have to keep the pressure on until they move and then immediately release it. It's the same theory in the saddle, you put one leg on, take the other completely off, give your rein cues as well (another long description that i'm not going to bother to write), and don't release until he moves in the direction you want. Is it nessisary to have a cooler if you work your horse hard? Not usually, but it depends. How are spurrs correctly used? You have to have very steady and strong legs and an independent seat or I would never put spurs on you. Then, western spurs with rowels for example, are used in a light, rolling motion, not just a jabbing motion. You can also use them to kind of roll up on the underside almost of the stomach by the ribs to encourage them to lift their back.

3) to keep the mouth shut so they don't get the bit worked around and under their tongue 4) same as a horse fed on grain. amount of hay to grass ration could differ, but space shouldnt in a pasture/paddock 5) working with and listening to the horse 6)curb/leverage bit? 7)shouldnt hinder movement, but different protection is used in different boots, and jumping boots are designed to protect the horse from jumping related injuries 8)get him to pivot from the ground on the hind alone and the front alone, then work in the saddle using the same cues once they are good in hand. 9) not necessarily, but it keeps off the chill in wind or winter temperatures, and can speed up the process of cooling safely 10) with care. and to enhance/exaggerate leg aids, if your leg isnt enough to send a clear signal/message your welcome, and sorry i didnt know the first 2 :)

That is not a stupid question. In fact, a lot of the time sitting on a horse DOES cause them pain. This can be seen easily by any good horse person. The horse will have swelling, tightness, or heat in their back. They will be irritable and have poor performance. Back pain can be caused by a lot of things. First of all, confirmation. Just like people, some horses are built better than others. Because of that, some will develop more back problems than others. The second thing that could be causing pain is a poor rider. A rider that sits like a sack of potatoes or a solid metal rod will hurt the horse's back without a question. The biggest back pain cause that should ALWAYS be avoided, but is quite common is saddle fit. For a person that doesn't work with horses often, it is strange to think about the fact that fitting a saddle to a horse's back is more important than fitting it to the rider's behind. A saddle must have even contact along the long muscles of the back, but no pressure on the spine. It must distribute the rider's weight evenly over a large area, but it can't be too stiff or the horse won't be able to flex. It must be properly padded and balanced. It has to have the weight bearing surface be far enough foreword that it only sits on the ribs, and back enough that it doesn't restrict the horse's shoulders. On top of all that, it needs to help the horse and rider do whatever they are training in. Because it is so tricky to make tack that fits well and doesn't hurt, people participate in extremely long apprenticeships to learn the art of saddlery. Since each horse is different, each rider is different, and each discipline or style is different, saddling is unimaginably complex. People are constantly working on finding a one size fits all saddle, but that will never really work. There are saddles that are extremely adjustable, saddles that are completely flexible, and saddles that are custom molded to a horse's back. All of these options have problems, and some horses work best in something that another horse couldn't move in. A quick search online about saddle fit will give you a glimpse into this world, and how much time and brain power is dedicated to it.

How would one go about teaching their horse to move in a collected frame? Being truly collected means that a horse is powering from their hindquarters, soft in the bridle, and rounding out it's back. It takes a LOT of muscle strength and it takes a while to build up enough stamina to be able to do it correctly. The way my trainer and I do it is to take the slack out of the reins, enough to be slightly uncomfortable, and to close your leg completely on the horse so that it doesn't stop. When the horse gives by rounding it's back and dropping it's head, I keep if going only for a couple of steps at the beginning and then I give them all of the slack back for a good halfway around the arena, then repeat. My gelding and I have been working on this for about 2 months now and he's to the point where he collects nicely at the trot and lope for about 3 strides (more if I ask him to, but he's still in the phase of getting in shape so I'm taking it slow) and then he gets his head for about 6 strides, then he get's collected again, etc. It takes experience, but in time you won't rely on looking at the horses head to see if he's collected or not (which isn't even an accurate way to tell because some horses figure out that all they have to do is move their nose to escape the bit pressure and with a novice rider they will think that it's collected, when in reality, it's not engaging at all), and you'll be able to feel your horse round out under you. When you teach a horse to jump, how do you encourage them to have a nice scopey round jump? Not a jumper, sorry. Why do people have nose bands on their horse with the bridle? Several reasons. Number one, it's used to prevent the horse from opening it's mouth, at least not enough to evade the bit's pressure. It's also used as an attachment for other tack like standing martingales, and it's also used to keep the horse from pulling when a rider wants a bit more control but doesn't want to put a harsh bit on. How much room would you say a horse needs if their only being fed hay? It depends on how much exercise it's getting. If you could write a definition of natural horsemanship what would it be? People who work with horses using methods similar to how lead horses act, and people who use pressure and release rather than force. I like some natural horsemen, I strongly dislike others. I'm very middle of the road. What is the bit called that you usually see western riders using? Where the side of the bit goes down past their mouth and the reins attach to that part if that makes any sense? What purpose does it serve? (sorry if that makes no sense) I think for all intensive purposes you're talking about a curb, though there are many shanked bits (the shanks are the pieces that hang down) shanked bits are used mostly when a horse is being ridden one handed using neck reining methods, because it relays the rider's commands (when the rider is experienced and knowledgeable) better than a bit with no shank. Is it ok to jump in boots that aren't jumping boots? (horse boots) or does it effect their movement? No boots should effect movement, if they did, I wouldn't use them. How do you train a horse to turn on the haunches/forehand and side pass? It all starts from the ground. Every time you ask a horse to move over with your finger for example, you have to keep the pressure on until they move and then immediately release it. It's the same theory in the saddle, you put one leg on, take the other completely off, give your rein cues as well (another long description that i'm not going to bother to write), and don't release until he moves in the direction you want. Is it nessisary to have a cooler if you work your horse hard? Not usually, but it depends. How are spurrs correctly used? You have to have very steady and strong legs and an independent seat or I would never put spurs on you. Then, western spurs with rowels for example, are used in a light, rolling motion, not just a jabbing motion. You can also use them to kind of roll up on the underside almost of the stomach by the ribs to encourage them to lift their back.