Why does my voltage drop so acutely the AC's compressor switches on?
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I know when a AC's compressor starts works everybody everywhere experience a drop in line voltage. Mine is an extreme-hence the question. I will explain. I live in India. During nighttime, until about 1 AM , the voltage in our house (that we receive from public distribution system) remains somewhere around 180 volts. When my AC's compressors tries to start (1.5 Tn AC), the voltage in my house drops down to around 120 volts....only when the compressor shuts off , does the voltage comes back. Finally at around 1 AM when the line voltage reaches near 200 volts, the compressor successfully starts....here there is no MASSIVE drop in line voltage....only a minimal drop!!!! So its something like 1)If the AC is gonna work , it wouldn't cause a massive drop in line voltage 2)Whenever there is a MASSIVE drop in line voltage, it means the compressor will fail to switch on Now this drop in line voltage is MASSIVE only in my house.....Other users using the same line experience only a small drop. Somebody said , i will experience greater drop in voltage because of the capacity of the "wire" coming to our house (from the public distribution system, ie the electrical post) has a PARTICULAR LOAD IT CAN SUSTAIN. I am unable to understand the physics here. I mean "when the line voltage is above 200 volts, my line is able to sustain the load, but not when the line voltage is lower"--why so???? I also do not understand the physics behind MASSIVE voltage drop????? Is there anything i can do to circumvent such massive voltage drops???? I know , if the Electricity board instals a transformer, it could work--but this is beyond my control? Using 3 phase might solve my problem....but its difficult to get it done by the Electricity Board and further there is still no guarantee it will work I have tried using voltage stabilizers. I have tried regular ones, then heavy duty ones (4 KVA, wide range stabliszer which was advertised to make AC work even at an input voltage of 130 volts)-none helped. What happens here is that, whenever , the compressor tries to start the line voltage MASSIVEly drops (below even the wide range stabilizers capability)as i have already explained before and they simply initiates low voltage cut-off. I should mention here that if i would just disconnect the AC from the stabilizer, the stabilizer would deliver an output voltage of 230 volts So it seems that lack of capacity in the electricity line to my house is the problem (i don't know-its my conclusion) So guys...plz read this and guide me as to what is the problem here and is there any solution for it? Somebody had suggested servo stabilizers. OK-if it would work i am willing to spent Rs30000 (or more if necessary-which BTW is more than what the AC costs). But before installing anything , i need to be sure it would work.Hence i need some understanding regarding the physics involved. The stabilizer salesman gives no guarantee here....they just sell the device u ask for. I am not sure they even understood what i tried to explain!!!!
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Answer:
If the voltage regulator (stabilizer) doesn't work, and it has enough rated capacity to handle the AC, then the problem is the power from the power company. You can't do much about that aside from yelling at them. A transformer won't help, I don't think, neither will this "servo stabilizers". The physics is simple, the wire leading into your house (plus the circuit breaker, the transformer in the street, etc) is too small. For example, if it is rated at 10 amps and the AC tries to draw 20 amps, it can't be done. All a transformer or stab. will do is increase the voltage WHILE increasing the current load. Since you have limited current due to the wire size, that only makes things worse. email me if that is not clear.
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Other answers
I would start by replacing ALL the wiring and circuit breakers for this particular circuit. You may have a problem with your compressor as well. But your biggest problem is the power company. This sort of performance is totally unacceptable.
JIm
I would start by replacing ALL the wiring and circuit breakers for this particular circuit. You may have a problem with your compressor as well. But your biggest problem is the power company. This sort of performance is totally unacceptable.
If the voltage regulator (stabilizer) doesn't work, and it has enough rated capacity to handle the AC, then the problem is the power from the power company. You can't do much about that aside from yelling at them. A transformer won't help, I don't think, neither will this "servo stabilizers". The physics is simple, the wire leading into your house (plus the circuit breaker, the transformer in the street, etc) is too small. For example, if it is rated at 10 amps and the AC tries to draw 20 amps, it can't be done. All a transformer or stab. will do is increase the voltage WHILE increasing the current load. Since you have limited current due to the wire size, that only makes things worse. email me if that is not clear.
billruss...
A couple of things going on here. If your house is the only one in the area with this low voltage electric problem I would suspect a high resistance connection somewhere in the wiring from the transformer on down to your house wiring. I've worked similar symptoms and usually found a loose or corroded joint somewhere. This joint has much higher resistance than it should so it tends to get HOT! Look for evidence of excess heat in the wiring. Things like brittle insulation, smoke stains, rainbow colors in the wire metal (particularly copper) If aluminum wiring is used in your circuits anywhere, take a very close look at those joints as they are notorious for corroding into an insulating oxide. Aluminum wires should always be coated with an isolating electric grease and be very tightly bound to assure good contact and connections. If the joint is in the transformer, you probably don't have many options other that to request the electric company do a load test on your transformer to determine its capacity to supply the desired voltage. Might want to consider requesting this in any case as you'll see later. I'll talk a bit about the physics, then explain another possible cause for the behavior you are seeing. Motors are rated for a certain power output and voltage input. If the voltage input is low, the motor tries its best to still deliver the rated power. The only way it can do this is to allow more current to flow through itself. This shows up in the equation (Power equals volts times amps). W = EI For small drops in voltage, a slight increase in amperage can usually occur without significant damage anywhere. When you have a massive voltage drop, a lot of extra current will try to move through your wiring. More current means more heat. More heat means faster oxidation of joints already compromised. Most motors have a thermal cutout safety switch which stops current flow in cases where the windings get warmer than a certain limit. This is great for occasional use, however, when the use is chronic, there is still damage built up in the motor. The damage occurs because the thermal cutout is a temperature sensitive device, It takes time for enough heat to transfer into the sensor to trip it. In this time, the heat has already started to affect the areas closer to the source, the wires. Usually this damage shows up as enbrittlement of the insulation in the winding coils. This insulation is usually a thin coating of a varnish like substance. As the coating gets brittle combined with the motion as copper expands and contracts with the heat cycles, the insulation eventually breaks down and a loop or several in the winding are essentially shunted (short circuit). With this shunting, there are fewer coils left to develop the needed magnetic fields to operate the motor which goes hand in hand with still higher demands for current because there is less inductive resistance in the coil. Each successive heating cycle builds more damage into the system until the motor will finally be unable to start under any conditions of voltage availability. You might see how a system like this can cascade into total failure. The transformer supplying the power to your house is very similar to the motor in that it has coils creating magnetic fields. It can suffer the same problems as motors can and for the same reasons. If your transformer has bridged some insulation due to overheating or a power surge such as a lightning strike, it could be damaged to the point that it can never deliver the rated voltage it is intended to supply, even with adequate supply power coming into the transformer. Having an inadequate supply transformer coupled with a high resistance point (or too small a wire size) can compound upon one another. I know that low voltage problems are a real challenge and can be very frustrating. Hopefully your AC unit hasn't been too badly damaged yet and will work fine once you get a good voltage supply to it. Best of luck to you in your voltage hunting :)
Damon
A couple of things going on here. If your house is the only one in the area with this low voltage electric problem I would suspect a high resistance connection somewhere in the wiring from the transformer on down to your house wiring. I've worked similar symptoms and usually found a loose or corroded joint somewhere. This joint has much higher resistance than it should so it tends to get HOT! Look for evidence of excess heat in the wiring. Things like brittle insulation, smoke stains, rainbow colors in the wire metal (particularly copper) If aluminum wiring is used in your circuits anywhere, take a very close look at those joints as they are notorious for corroding into an insulating oxide. Aluminum wires should always be coated with an isolating electric grease and be very tightly bound to assure good contact and connections. If the joint is in the transformer, you probably don't have many options other that to request the electric company do a load test on your transformer to determine its capacity to supply the desired voltage. Might want to consider requesting this in any case as you'll see later. I'll talk a bit about the physics, then explain another possible cause for the behavior you are seeing. Motors are rated for a certain power output and voltage input. If the voltage input is low, the motor tries its best to still deliver the rated power. The only way it can do this is to allow more current to flow through itself. This shows up in the equation (Power equals volts times amps). W = EI For small drops in voltage, a slight increase in amperage can usually occur without significant damage anywhere. When you have a massive voltage drop, a lot of extra current will try to move through your wiring. More current means more heat. More heat means faster oxidation of joints already compromised. Most motors have a thermal cutout safety switch which stops current flow in cases where the windings get warmer than a certain limit. This is great for occasional use, however, when the use is chronic, there is still damage built up in the motor. The damage occurs because the thermal cutout is a temperature sensitive device, It takes time for enough heat to transfer into the sensor to trip it. In this time, the heat has already started to affect the areas closer to the source, the wires. Usually this damage shows up as enbrittlement of the insulation in the winding coils. This insulation is usually a thin coating of a varnish like substance. As the coating gets brittle combined with the motion as copper expands and contracts with the heat cycles, the insulation eventually breaks down and a loop or several in the winding are essentially shunted (short circuit). With this shunting, there are fewer coils left to develop the needed magnetic fields to operate the motor which goes hand in hand with still higher demands for current because there is less inductive resistance in the coil. Each successive heating cycle builds more damage into the system until the motor will finally be unable to start under any conditions of voltage availability. You might see how a system like this can cascade into total failure. The transformer supplying the power to your house is very similar to the motor in that it has coils creating magnetic fields. It can suffer the same problems as motors can and for the same reasons. If your transformer has bridged some insulation due to overheating or a power surge such as a lightning strike, it could be damaged to the point that it can never deliver the rated voltage it is intended to supply, even with adequate supply power coming into the transformer. Having an inadequate supply transformer coupled with a high resistance point (or too small a wire size) can compound upon one another. I know that low voltage problems are a real challenge and can be very frustrating. Hopefully your AC unit hasn't been too badly damaged yet and will work fine once you get a good voltage supply to it. Best of luck to you in your voltage hunting :)
Damon
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