Which neighborhood in Buenos Aires should we look for accommodation in?
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My wife and I will be in Buenos Aires for one week this summer for a vacation. We are early 30s and want a place that can give us a feel for what it's like to live in the city. We like good food, interesting restaurants and bars, and small coffee shops. We're happy to be away from touristy centers. Thanks for helping to point us in the right direction, any insight to help focus our search is appreciated.
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Answer:
I would stay anywhere in Palermo, but not within the vicinity of Plaza Serrano, as the area is way too touristy, too loud and most restaurants and coffee shops are packed on weekends. I would choose any place within 2-3 blocks from the subway line that runs along Santa Fe avenue - the green line known as the D line. It's really convenient for getting downtown fast. It runs straight to the most historical part of town and most other places of interest. Now there aren't any real big hotel chains, but plenty of boutique hotels scattered throughout Palermo. One of the best features of the area is that lots of streets are tree-lined and are lovely for long walks. In my opinion, it's the best place to live in Buenos Aires. Hope this helps!
Claudia Pesce at Quora Visit the source
Other answers
Palermo: A great area. Very hip and trendy with tons of shopping, street cafes, and nightlife. Notable Haunts: 878 (Fancy booze drinks in Villa Crespo), Full City Coffee House on Thames(best coffee in town, also try something to snack on here, great chef), Crizia (great seafood), Don Julio(amazing steak and wine selection), Siamo Nel Forno(amazing pizza). JA(wine shop that offers group tastings), Oveja Descarriada (a cool little divey art bar, foreign films shown often and cheap booze), La Peca (great pizza in rustic digs). Recoleta Lends a haunting and antiquated vibe, offers accommodation at a great price if you look (Ayres de Recoleta Hotel averages about $40USD per night for a large studio size room with efficiency kitchen, plates, etc...) This area is also just a D line trip away from other hotspots in Palermo and Downtown. Check out the architecture here and of course, Recoleta Cemetery. There are also many parks and artisan fairs to enjoy as well as museums. Notable Haunts: Tandoor (killer Indian food). San Telmo My favorite part of town. It's bohemian, musicians and artists abound (at least each time I've been to visit friends there). Can be a little rough around the edges but well worth it. Many great hostels nearby. If you don't stay in San Telmo, make certain you visit. Notable Haunts: Cafe San Juan(amazing food, hip spot), Brasserie Patanque (french), Aramburu (affordable gastronomy), Aramburu Bis (Aramburu does bistro, proper), Doppelganger(cocktail lounge), Coffee Town (second best coffee in the city, located within the san telmo market which is also an amazing place to stroll). Extras: Opt for a "closed door" restaurant. It's a chef that cooks in-home. Super intimate and ultra local. Wine pairings are often included. Also, CookApp is an app that allows you to sign up for dinner at the home of a local. Sign up and search Buenos Aires. Another great resource when planning your trip is: vuenosairez(dot)com (up to date info on upcoming events). Pickupthefork(dot)com is also handy when navigating the dining circuit. Well put together and fun to read. Zonaprop(dot)com lists some apartments for rent by the week. Depending on whether you wanted a whole joint for yourself or a hotel room, this is a pretty cool option and if you plan ahead you may get a nice rate. Corner cafes and those off tree-lined streets are often a good bet. Sit outdoors, take in the scenery and sample the goods. All neighborhoods come equipped with hidden gems. If you happen to spend a night in-room or picnic in the park and can get your hands on some Alfredo Roca Malbec or any wine made by the brothers Dirigutti or Matias Michelini (passionate wines), you're in for a treat. In Recoleta, Vientos Del Sur, is a great wine shop with very friendly folks, who'll steer you in the right direction. Often offering wine tastings for free on Friday nights. There is a certain eau de tourist throughout town, but if you focus on the above neighbourhoods you ought to be able to find your fair share of authentic. All areas are walkable and scenic in their own regard. I tried to include joints where locals and tourists alike gather, hope it can be of some use.
Holly Jones
All of the good restaurants are in Palermo Hollywood, although in the food department, Las Canitas is an up-and-coming scene. The other good neighborhoods that people have mentioned can be pretty touristy, but for a week, they're all nice. Recoleta: I lived here for two months. I liked it, but I wished that I'd lived in Palermo (Palermo Hollywood, specifically). Recoleta is beautiful, and the cemetary is a must-see, but you have to take cabs to get home from bars late at night, unless you're going to the few good ones in Recoleta (Milion, Shamrock, etc.) On the other hand, the people-watching is fantastic. There are so many 60+ year-old ladies rocking out stiletto heels on cobblestone. Puerto Madero: If you like to go running, this is by far the most scenic/one of the safest places to do it. The bridge is beautiful, the eco-park is pretty...but in terms of restaurants, it is mostly over-priced steak houses meant to bait tourists. San Telmo: As mentioned, "Bohemian." Really, it's just very British. It's a joke in BsAs that the first language of San Telmo is English, because it's where all the British expats live. Note: wherever you live, there will be amazing restaurants/cafes. Argentines love food and are proud of and prepare it wonderfully. There are just more of them and in a greater density in Palermo Hollywood. Plus, it's where the young late-20's early 30's crowd lives, so you'll feel at home. Literally, you might feel right at home, because some of the best accommodations are these people's houses (Airbnb).
Cyndi Chen
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