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How can I do an HDR image?

How can I merge different photos into an HDR (high dynamic range) image?

  • Answer:

    I'm a Photomatix guy... However, let me add another dimension... Assuming we're talking about an image that is ~~optimally exposed~~ in both the shadow and highlight areas, which is/should be the definition of an HDR image, one does not really need "HDR software". If you shot a bracketed series of say, 7 images, and you used image #4, the "correctly exposed" image as your base image, in Photoshop, you place the #4 image as the top layer. -Underneath the #4 top layer, you place the 3 underexposed images, each on their own layer. -Below the 3 underexposed layers,, you place the 3 overexposed layers, each on their own layer. Placing a mask on the top, #4 layer, you "paint" through to the first underexposed layer directly below the #4 layer. Since the underexposed layer beneath the top layer is mostly black, you'll be painting through the highlight areas that were overexposed in the correctly exposed #4 image, but perfectly exposed in the most underexposed image! Thus, a street light at night, for instance, that is just a circle of blown out, overexposed light in the #4 image, can have the details of the bulb/lettering/fixture painted into the #4 image. Once you paint through the parts of the underexposed image that correctly expose the blown out highlights in the #4 image, you then merge the top, #4, layer, the mask, and underexposed layer beneath it, into one layer. Repeat that process with each subsequent layer beneath the top, #4 layer, until you've painted through the necessary areas of the remaining 2 underexposed layers as well as the 3 individual overexposed layers, remembering to always "merge" the #4 layer, its mask and the layer directly below it that you have been painting through from, into one layer. At the end of the process, you will have a "blended image" with all areas of the image optimally exposed. And, I would say, an image with very wide dynamic range. Needless to say, there are many variations on this approach, depending on how many images in the bracket, how many images from the bracket you "need" to paint through in the layered image, how wide of an exposure difference one uses in their brackets, what opacity to use when you paint through to the underlying layers [I usually start with a 20% opacity and work up/down from their], and yada, yada, yada...... One last thing, it's a bit difficult trying to convey this convoluted process in written form, so, my apologies for any confusion I may have caused. If necessary, and you're interested, feel free to shoot me an email. **One additional note...the 3 underexposed and 3 overexposed RAW images can be adjusted to "taste" in Camera Raw before inserting those images into the layered file and used as sources to paint through from..The options are endless.

Louis Tracy at Quora Visit the source

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The first part of the answer is a different question, How do I take photos that will later be merged to an HDR image?  The answer is the same whether you are using film or a digital camera.  You vary the shutter speed.   If you vary the aperture the optical qualities of the photos being merged will differ and give you a bad HDR merge.  If you vary the ISO you can have some variations in noise and dynamic range that can lead to a lesser quality HDR merge.  Using a tripod is generally a good idea otherwise the photos may have alignment problems.  You can do handheld with some success. Other answers here have great advice for merging HDR images.  The software aligns the images and allows you to change manually or automatically select tonal ranges for the resulting HDR image.  Most no longer do HDR using film so I will skip those details as well. I will add an alternate approach.  Consider using DxO to get HDR from a single photograph.  Their shadow recovery, optical corrections, and noise elimination software is really top notch (see http://campaigns.dxo.com/opticspro/index-en.php?utm_source=dxomark&utm_medium=cpm&utm_content=interstitiel-push-the-limits-en&utm_campaign=op9-lancement) Using DxO you can get HDR without the HDR limitations...  Use it for action photos.  Use it hand-held.  I have stopped taking traditional HDR photos for almost all cases because this software is simply that good.

Michael T. Lauer

Most of what I'm about to say has already been said, in part, but I'll give it a go since I'm relatively new to the world of HDR as well but have made significant improvements in the quality of my images as a result of the following: First off, read over Trey Ratcliff's HDR tutorial: http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial It's a great step-by-step guide to get a general idea of what to do, but the only way to really get comfortable with the whole process is to practice until you get a good feel for how to work with your photos. I start with Photomatix, it does a great job of generating HDR images from multiple exposure images, or pseudo-HDR images from a single raw image (sometimes it's difficult to get multiple images, like with moving subjects, for example). The tutorial mentioned will do a great job of telling you what to do with Tone Mapping, which is the next step, and helps to make certain elements pop out more than others. You're essentially just adjusting the luminosity, contrast, etc...of the merged image to create a more dynamic range (be careful not to overdo this step...this is where new HDR enthusiasts tend to go overboard) Now you'll have a relatively ugly image that needs to be touched up. I export the image as a TIFF file, and open it up in Photoshop. Consider purchasing the Topaz Labs bundle (http://www.topazlabs.com) though personally I only like to use Topaz Adjust, Topaz DeNoise, and Topaz Detail. Topaz Adjust helps to bring some life back to the image that currently looks a little ugly from photomatix. Things get smoothed out, colors get re-normalized, but the image still has a real HDR look to it. Now you're starting to get a good looking image! Topaz DeNoise is really incredible software and can basically make your 1600 iso image look like 100 iso, without losing detail! And for whatever does get lost in the whole process, Topaz Detail does a great job of restoring. It adjusts contrast and a number of other elements that you can choose to bring detail back to the image, but it does it really well. Once all that is done, you should have a (hopefully) great looking HDR! I recommend practice over and over until you get a good feel for the whole process, and it will quickly become second nature.

Nicolai McCrary

I found this tutorial on doing HDR merging in Photoshop does a great job of explaining things (http://www.photoshopcafe.com/tutorials/HDR_ps/hdr-ps.htm) But to summarize the process: You need to shoot at least three shots of the same scene with different exposures (under, normal, over). You need to load those images into software that can merge the exposures into one image. You need to adjust the image to get the right degree of shadow and highlight details. You need to convert this digital image (32-bit or 16-bit color) into something that can actually be printed or displayed, because there are no display devices that show images of this detail level. Photoshop CS3 or higher will get you started, although dedicated HDR programs like Photomatix Pro are generally favored for their additional settings and better automated algorithms. Several HDR programs even act as plug-ins for Lightroom so you can start the process as part of your photo management. (Some even plug into Photoshop.)

Todd Gardiner

If you use Lightroom, Photomatix Pro is a great HDR tool.  Works fairly automatically as a Lightroom Addon and is pretty easy to work with- has a lot of advanced adjustments that I havent even touched yet

Mike Cobb

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