What improvements does your house need? Think everything from heating and insulation to manufacturing please?

Wood stove

• I'm a fellow expert here in the electrical division. OK I'm thinking of getting an older used wood stove that has the knobs on the front door to adjust the draft for my 3 car garage. There is an oil fired furnace in the garage that I'm not using so I'd like to remove the pipe for the furnace and pipe in the wood stove instead. There is masonry flue pipe in the chimney. I'm reading things like I need to watch out for "whuffing" and the flue piping should be matched to the stove because you don't want too much draft or you don't want a flue pipe that is over sized for the stove. What do you say about all this and what do I need to look out for in terms of hooking up the stove safely. For now I'm only using the stove when I'm there but would like to be able to load it and walk away from it feeling relatively safe that nothings going to happen and burn the house down. Any information you can provide would be most appreciated. Hi Mr Ball. More questions for you. From all my previous questions, a lot has changed. We have decided to buy a newer wood stove that is more efficient, since the old Schrader was prior to the newer ones with the newer combustion chambers that re-burn the excess smoke. It also appears that I may have a leak somewhere in the existing chimney, allowing for cold air to add to condensation issues, with dripping. So, we are going to go all new with a new stove and flexible liner kit, to hopefully eliminate all of the worries associated with an older burner, and not up to par chimney to help prevent the excessive build up of creosote, and get a more efficient burn. My questions is, in the short time we did use the older stove, it heated very well, actually too well, as in order to get me pipe temps up around 300, to help prevent creosote, after burning for several hours, it was too hot. I was wondering if I went with a smaller stove and burnt it hot, keeping it near or above the 300 target, rather than buying a larger one, and having to load it up pretty good, to get my pipes hot, and having too much heat. My home is a 1200 square foot ranch. The stove is in the basement. The basement is finished. I have removed insulation in the ceiling so that heat flows up and warms the floor. We keep the basement door open and all that was working well. We plan on putting a large floor vent in one area, just to help with the air flow, and help even out the basement and upstairs. From our short burn experience so far, we fill this should work out just about perfect, however, that old Schrader would really have to be cranking in order to keep the pipes at the prefered temps, and it was making the basement and eventually the upstairs too hot. If I dampered it down, to lessen the overall heat, it would then have my stove pipes too cold, and adding to the creosote build up issues. One that I am looking at is a Quadra-Fire 2100 Millenium. It says 950 to 1500 sq ft. I would think that this one, running at normal hot fire, would be a more even heat, all while keeping the stove pipe above 300. Plus, adding the chimney liner kit, should also help keep those temps better, much further out the system. As I'm sure, being a 9 x 13 liner now, is no where near up to the temp it needs to be to help prevent the build up of creosote. I'm actually getting condensation running and its coming in my wall thimble/crock. I read some posts on some sites that others had the same issues, and fixed it by having the liner kits done, because it just wasn't getting hot enough and allowing condensation to form. Very interested on your thoughts on it all. We will be making the purchase as soon as possible, as we are into the heating season now. I would like to think I could have everything new done within a week or so, depending upon availibility of stoves. One piece of information I have read that is conflicting is that many say buy a larger unit, and burn smaller, but wouldn't that mean lower pipe temps, and just helping along the creosote issue? I figured by a medium to small unit and burn it hotter. Am I out of bounds with that thinking? hi, i live in semidetached house with avarage "fireplace" in sitting room which has no purpose..except decoration at the moment. could i change it for wood stove and how much it woud cost prox. and could u tell me little bit about the proces. thank u.kat.

• Answer:

  I do not believe they allow a furnace or wood stove in a garage, check with your local building department. Second older wood stoves do not burn a cleanly as newer ones ($1500 tax credit if bought before the end of the year) Third, you can not down size or (I do not recommend up sizing) of any solid flue either way it slows the draft and will increase built up, lastly I would have a local Certified Chimney Sweep www.csia.org, (there you can look up by zip code to find one near you) take a first hand look at what you have, they should be able to help. Welcome back Jason, if you are relining a Masonry chimney that liner must be insulated (wrap or pour Thermix) t his will help keep the pipe hot and reduce build up and increase draft. as far as what stove will work best for you, follow the advice of a wood stove store in your area as they know their stoves and characteristics and check with your local building department. you would have to contact your local building department for what is required in your town/city. basically find a wood stove, take that info with you to the building department and they will tell you what you need to do. I would have a local Certified Chimney Sweep www.csia.org, (there you can look up by zip code to find one near you) take a first hand look at what you have they should be able to help to see if the fireplace will be able to use a wood stove, maybe with installation and relining if needed.