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Vintage wedding dress back alteration

  • Sewists/sewers/seamstresses of askme, I need your help. I bought a beautiful 1930s lace wedding dress yesterday, but need to have the back altered because though the dress fits at the waist, the zipper won't close in the bust. Other non-sewer advice welcome in the style department. So. I fell in love with a 1930s lace floor length wedding dress in a vintage shop. Unfortunately, when I tried it on, it closed at the natural waist but not in the back. It looked absolutely stunning from the front, and just as I thought all was lost, the owner of the shop mentioned that they had a sewer in-house who does costume design and alterations, and they could simply take out the zipper, put a small one in up to the waist, and then do a ribbon lace-up back. Upon closer examination, the owner also suggested they could do an eyelet back, which I think might look better with this dress. She made it sound super simple, and even said they would throw in the alteration with the cost of the dress. Now, the dress is bought and I'm going in for alterations Wednesday, and after one hour on the phone with my mom, who is an experienced but not professional sewer, I have some questions. First off, here are some pics: http://imgur.com/K7yWL8r Sorry for the poor quality, I wasn't quite anticipating asking this question when I took them, so I also don't have shots of the back. The dress is currently at the shop until alterations Wednesday, so more photos are inaccessible, but I will try to describe it to the best of my ability. I believe there are two seams, on on either side of the zipper, so the back appears to have 3 panels of fabric. Below the waist, the back is identical to the front. At bust level, the zipper is maybe 1 or 2 inches from closing I think. The questions: -What would be the best way to fix the back, both fashion-wise and technique-wise? Ribbon lace-up? Eyelet opening? Perhaps something like http://abeautifulmess.typepad.com/my_weblog/2011/02/the-wedding-cake-dress.html ? Something else I haven't thought of? -How "simple" is this fix, really? I don't want to ruin a beautiful dress by doing a quickie fix that ends up not sitting right. -My mom has offered to go to the sewer with me on Wednesday to talk about options. Considering the owner said it would be a quick fix, would the sewer be annoyed by our questions? I'm willing to pay more to get the job done right. Please please tell me this is possible. I am really looking for solutions and would be heartbroken if I couldn't make this dress work. Thanks in advance for your help, and I'll try to answer any questions promptly, as I'm sure that having never done more than stitch up a hem or a patch on to my backpack, , my sewing vocab is limited.

  • Answer:

    A ribbon back would not be my first choice for a 1930's gown. I would try to do something more appropriate for the time period, such as the above mentioned gussets, or a http://img1.etsystatic.com/000/0/6508965/il_fullxfull.340517889.jpg alteration. Here's http://pm.b5z.net/i/u/10030340/i/8192.jpg. Here's an http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TzDwzkLuka0/TZoDQ8ngK_I/AAAAAAAAAOE/34VBKrRdmL0/s1600/tucked30sdress.jpg for inserting a placket (not actually what's going on, I think it's just pintucks, but you get the idea) in the back, in which case I would also add fabric covered buttons. No eyelets, nothing that looks like corset lacing. To someone in the 30s, that would look too much like underwear from their parents' time. A single, wide, silk satin ribbon with nice drape with an otherwise open back would work well, especially if you use the same silk somewhere else in the ensemble, possibly https://www.google.com/search?q=1930s+wedding+dress+pattern&client=firefox-a&hs=uES&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=zSaDUf_KHoe80gGmroDICQ&ved=0CDAQsAQ&biw=1206&bih=550#imgrc=xE0YBVTrjRYEtM%3A%3BzPbuVAH_jEquFM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpatternjunkie.typepad.com%252F.a%252F6a00e5547ba12988330134869b312d970c-320wi%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpatternjunkie.typepad.com%252Fpattern_junkie%252F1930s%252F%3B320%3B495 at the waist, or as a small http://img3.etsystatic.com/000/2/5306890/il_570xN.359620987.jpg.

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Other answers

I asked http://ask.metafilter.com/229906/Breast-reduction-surgery-is-another-option-I-suppose some time ago. I went with the small triangular panels under the armpits. It fits like a dream and looks the way the designer wanted it to look (the panels blend in perfectly) - so glad I didn't go for a ribbon back.

halogen

Definitely not seeing eyelet/ribbon lace-up stuff on the back and yiiii... I don't know why that seemed like a good idea to the merchant, other than that maybe that's the standard way to get a too-small garment into people's hands. I think it's a lovely dress, beautiful in its simplicity -- and some sort of weird pseudo-corset back closure will not align well with that aesthetic. Lacing is to make things tight and while that is neatly tailored and form-fitting, it isn't and shouldn't be tight. ask about putting in side panels under the arms, and leaving the zipper as is ...yes, this, and all the rest of barnone's answer. That would also be better from a preservation approach; presumably you don't want this lovely old garment to die with you -- inserts can be removed and the original seams re-sewn and it can easily be taken back to its 1930s splendour. Not so much with eyelets.

kmennie

Unless the in-house person is a professional tailor/seamstress, I wouldn't have them do it. Like, do they do this just for fun, are they 'experienced' like your mom, or are they really and truly a professional? Ask to see some samples of their work. You are under no obligation to have this work done by this person. It's your dress, it's your wedding (yes?), and if the work isn't done properly you are going to be very upset. You do have every right to ask these questions and as long as you're considerate about it, I don't think you'll have any issues. Have some names of other alterations businesses in your pocket (so to speak) if you don't get satisfactory answers from the person in the vintage shop.

cooker girl

If the shop has an in-house tailor who is hired specifically to alter vintage clothing to flatter modern women, I would trust that person's opinion on how to alter the back. I mean, that's his or her job. The tailor will tell you their ideas for how to do this alteration, and most likely will be able to put it in context in terms of why you might choose one over the other. For example, if you are buying the dress to wear to your wedding, you might make a different choice than you would if you were having it altered to just be a pretty summer white lace dress. I don't think you should take it upon yourself (or throw it to the Hive Mind) to brainstorm different ways to alter the dress. Again, it sounds like there's a professional on hand who does this for a living and will have thoughts about it. I don't understand why you want your mother there or why you think the professional tailor hired by the shop would not be up to the job.

Sara C.

I would try to let it out at the sides (I assume there's not a side zip.) and I like halogen's idea of a gusset in the armpit. You'll be able to do the YMCA dance! The dress reads 50s to me and I think a lace up back would look odd with that high neckline. (I think of corsetbacks as a feature of well, corset-style bodices.)

vespabelle

Another vote for that reading 1950s, and another vote for open back and not eyelet. You could fill in with a well-matched sheer, if you are not comfortable with an open back. Also: secure it to yourself with wig tape.

Medieval Maven

Great answers so far, thanks so much! I like the idea of armpit gussets or an open back, or a single wide ribbon instead of lacing. Just to clarify, I believe that when the shop owner said "eyelet" she actually meant a keyhole back. I just remembered the term and wanted to clear that up.

dysh

Sorry to threadsit, just wanted to clarify that I partially want my mom there because she wants to be part of the process and is super excited about it, which is sweet, and partially because I feel like since I know next to nothing about alterations, it would be helpful to have someone there who knows more technical stuff, and can picture how something would work/ook where maybe I couldn't. Also, this is my bad on the question, as I don't think I was clear enough, but I was partially asking the hive mind which style back they would think would look best with this dress. For example, my mom thinks that she's never seen an eyelet back with a non-structural skirt, and it would look weird. I didn't think so, but maybe I'm missing something, and the fashionable people of metafilter can clue me in.

dysh

Honey, the tailor is going to know lots of things about alterations, including technical stuff, and can picture how this will look. Altering stuff is that person's job. I say bring your mom, because wedding! And fun! And yay! And if the tailor presents you with different options, and answers all your questions, and you just can't make up your mind because they all sound pretty to you, then hey, you've got a second opinion. Unless there's something important you're not saying about who this tailor is or what kind of track record the shop has, I don't see any reason that you need to know about technical sewing stuff (or fashion, for that matter) in order for the tailor to do their job.

Sara C.

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