Is it possible to attach a sliding part for my keyboard to my table?

It's called a [sliding] keyboard tray.

It's called a https://www.google.ca/search?q=keyboard+drawer (or tray/shelf) and there are numerous options available ranging from $20 for a cheap plastic one to a much more sturdy and attractive one with wooden shelf and substantial hardware. http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50086690/, btw.

I should mention too - part of the problem also is that the desk is relatively thin, and the pressboard tends to bulge up if your screw gets too close to the surface, so you can't really use large screws or real anchors if you don't want to mar the top/have a non-smooth surface. If you did the bolt method above you could theoretically get flat-head bolts and recess them ~1/16 or ~1/8 of an inch or whatever they are and if you are good and careful end up with a smooth surface but ugly bolts still visible. You could then try and cover this up, maybe with wood putty or something, but Im not convinced that wouldn't look worse.

that desk (and mine) are veneer over pressboard, and that tray looks like mine in that it screws into the desk from the bottom. Pressboard has no strength when you pull away from it and inevitably the weight of my arms + the keyboard, or just the keyboard, pulled the tray out. part of the problem also is that the desk is relatively thin, and the pressboard tends to bulge up if your screw gets too close to the surface, so you can't really use large screws Maybe McSwaggers tried this too, but you could use larger diameter screws rather than longer. A #10 or #12 sheet metal screw will have a lot more holding power than the (guessing) #8 or so-sized screws that probably come with. A 3/4" desktop you could take 5/8"-long screws without bulging the top surface. You might have to drill the holes in the metal slides a bit bigger, and pilot holes in the desktop would be smart, too. I like stainless screws because they tend to be machined more cleanly than the cheaper galvanized ones.

I ended up epoxying large thin rectangular pieces of plywood to the bottom of the desk where the tray would normally attach (It had 4 legs that touched), threw a couple of screws in those for shits and giggles, and then attached the tray to that plywood so that the weight was distributed more broadly across the wood/screws. I think this is the best solution. That pressboard stuff will never take the weight of your arms leaning on a keyboard shelf so, if you are likely to do that (even inadvertently), forget about screwing anything directly to the bottom of the table.

Regarding the bolt-from-the-top solution. If you want to go that route, consider using elevator bolts. If you were to neatly recess them, it would probably be relatively neat looking, and you can get them in various finishes. Besides, that's what a desk pad or desk calendar is for, right?

I like McSwagger's approach. I think you could probably roughen up the glue area with sandpaper and use plain wood glue. Clamp the plywood to the tabletop while it's drying. You can buy just the http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21494 for a keyboard drawer (note: this costs more than the whole Ikea keyboard tray, but it's better equipment), and make the surface whatever size you want to allow for mousing, etc.

http://ask.metafilter.com/240424/Is-it-possible-to-attach-a-sliding-part-for-my-keyboard-to-my-table#3487316: Maybe McSwaggers tried this too, but you could use larger diameter screws rather than longer. That was actually one of my install variations! I drilled the hole out slightly but I dont remember the size screw I used at the time. It was the victim of a fat cat rather insistent upon pets jumping on the tray while I was using pulled out. Can't say how well it would have worked long term, but with the cat hopping on there was just too much leverage to keep it mounted. I did end up using larger screws with the plywood method though because it had already been widened.