Can't Connect both Windows Latop & iPad to VerizonFIOS wifi simultaneously

I am on a Rev F router too and thought that the reason my Windows devices would never connect with any degree of stability was the cursed NAT table issue. I am neither a torrent user or a PC gamer so this was particularly frustrating. Incidentally, my iOS devices always connected properly during this time. What was actually happening is this: 1) Booting up a Windows device after a certain period of inactivity forced the router to assign a fresh DHCP lease to that device. This did not always occur instantly for whatever reason. 2) Bonjour (mDNSResponder.exe) running on my Windows devices as an adjunct to iTunes wrote in 0.0.0.0 as the default gateway for my network, which ordinarily causes no problems - but where the correct default gateway had not been configured by the DHCP lease, it caused the Windows devices to shit the bed. The router had already assigned them a DHCP lease so rebooting them didn't help, but the Windows devices tried to connect to 0.0.0.0 instead of the real default gateway so there was no connectivity. Because you have iDevices, it seems likely to me that you have iTunes installed on your PCs and might be facing the same problem. Therefore, I suggest" 1) Running services.msc and setting the Bonjour service to Manual startup on all Windows devices and 2) Then rebooting both these devices and the router (unplug the latter for 30 seconds or so and then turn it back on). If this is your problem, this should fix it - the MI424WR is a joke but it's tough to imagine a scenario where the iPad is the culprit and causes the router to fail.

There's something to be said for spending money to get out from under ancient technology that can't be upgraded to current software. As in, a brand new netbook, underpowered as it is by today's standards, is probably leaps and bounds faster than that old laptop. XP network drivers were bad, wireless even worse. Also consider setting up a separate wifi access point. Put the old machines on 802.11b/g and the new stuff on the 802.11n frequencies. This might be your simplest solution.

Ike, I believe scooterdog is suggesting that you disable the wireless network feature in the FiOS router and plug another wireless router into one of the Ethernet ports on the back. This will work just fine. You should have the option of using any wireless router in Bridge or AP mode, meaning they won't try to perform NAT and will pass DHCP requests through to the other network segment. As a step further you can set the FiOS router in Bridge mode such that it no longer serves DHCP leases or performs NAT, and use another router behind it to do all of those and provide wireless. This means you would not plug anything but that second router into the Ethernet of the FiOS router. This last option is what I'd do because it minimizes the roles of the carrier router, which I've found can't be trusted due to odd bugs like you've noticed. I would buy an Airport Extreme and set it up as I described.

One more important detail: Windows XP-Pro laptop is using the Intel Centrino Advanced-N 620 driver. Windows 7 laptop is using the Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205 driver. However, a third desktop PC running Vista will ALWAYS connect to the WiFi regardless of iPad scenario . The PC is is using the Broadcom 802.11g Network Adaptor driver. Could this be a Windows driver issue?

Do you have the Rev. F version of that router? It has a known problem with constantly overflowing its NAT table. That said, it should take at least a day or two for that to manifest.

Thank you pompomtom! I am now able to access the router's config settings. Suggestions on where to go from there? pla: Yes, it is Rev. F. But the issue show up instantly.

Holy crap, Inspector.Gadget, that seems to have worked. I now have my iDevices and laptops connected simultaneously. Hopefully this will last. Thank you so much. I never would have figured that out myself. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.

I jumped the gun on marking this as resolved. Both windows pc's have fallen off the WiFi again. Are there other suggestions in terms of router settings I could try? I am just using the factory default settings following the reset.

One place to start is the Event Viewer tool in Windows. Generally the "Administrative Events" filter under "Custom Views" in the leftmost panel will capture any records of problematic network activity.