Winter coats pulling at the back and arms: A fact of life or not?
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How should a men's winter coat fit? Is it just a fact life that it will feel tight at the arms and ride up, or is that a sign of a bad fit? I've recently been shopping for a new winter coat - for the last 5 years I've been wearing a ski jacket, but I'm trying to make a bit more of an effort with my appearance, so something a bit classier is in order. I recently spent a long Sunday afternoon shopping in town, looking to spend ~£80-£120 on a wool coat. I tried on a lot of coats in a lot of shops, and the fit was always problematic - when I extended my arms, they all tended to pull at the back and around my upper arms. I also found that raising my arms or sitting down would cause the whole thing to ride up around my neck. This also tends to happen when I sit down. I eventually settled on http://www.marksandspencer.com/Autograph-Double-Collar-Jacket-Wool/dp/B0017R76T8?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_7&nodeId=43503030&sr=1-7&qid=1352758294&pf_rd_r=1FPR8HAXQGEJR15J1D7R&pf_rd_m=A2BO0OYVBKIQJM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=43503030&pf_rd_p=321381387&pf_rd_s=related-items-3 coat, size XL, which seemed to be the least bad, but I've been wearing it around the house, and both the riding up and the pulling are bugging me. I'm still in the window where I could realistically return it to M&S. So, coat experts of Metafilter, tell me: are the problems I'm complaining about just a fact of life with this kind of clothing, or should I be shopping around, spending more money, looking at a different size, or looking at something else entirely? Further information: I'm a relatively slim 29-year old male, 6'2" tall, in southern England. I don't have to look smart for work, so this is not a coat that will be routinely worn over a suit. I'm looking for a comfortable and reasonably stylish way to keep warm in English winter weather.
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Answer:
Part of it is just the nature of the coat. A ski jacket is built for maximum mobility which typically means armpit gussets (which is what it sounds like you're missing the most). Any coat or jacket that doesn't have that feature is going to feel restrictive and probably uncomfortable in comparison. I have the same issue when I come back from a hiking trip. Everything feels SO uncomfortable! The second part is the cut. In your price range you'll be doing a lot of shopping or you'll need to get lucky to find something of comparable comfort to your ski jacket.
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Other answers
There are people who work at these stores whose job it is to help you find the proper fit. Engage their services.
jeffamaphone
I'd say it either isn't a good fit, or it's a crappy cut, or both. A well-made wool coat (http://www.filson.com/products/mackinaw-cruiser-extra-long.10044.html?fromCat=true&fvalsProduct=mens/coats-jackets/wool&fmetaProduct=101114) shouldn't do the odd riding-up or choking you that you describe; the downside is that you may not be in the price range to get the quality of cut that you want.
Forktine
If it bothers you now, return it! Do not delay. It will not start to unbother you. Look online for shops that offer tall sizes. (In the US, I would send you to Banana Republic.)
purpleclover
I would agree that you're looking in a price range that's too low. Material and cut will be improved at higher price points. I don't think you need to break the bank, though. As per the above I bought a wool peacoat at Banana Republic and spent around $400 Canadian and the quality was a step up from bargain retailers. I wouldn't spend less than that here - not sure what the conversion/equal spending would be in the UK but I think around double what you're looking at would be a good start. I recall an Esquire or GQ article about buying a wardrobe on a bugdet, and one of the staples they said to spend a bit more money on if you could was a good coat. If you buy a classic style it will far outlast trends and will serve you well with good materials, cut and style. Good clothing is really worth it, in my opinion. It looks better and wears harder, and you get your money's worth. If you have the means and know you'll be using it for a long time, stretch a bit to get something that fits.
jimmythefish
XL? Sounds like it's too big. What's your chest/suit size?
supercres
I would add to the above that your typical wool coat will not afford the free range of motion that a ski jacket will allow, like someone else said above. However, I don't find that to be an impediment. How often are you raising your hands above your head when wearing it? Me, not very much. If I have my wool coat on I'm usually hands-in-pockets or drinking coffee or similar. I don't need to move like Jet Li (although I can in sweats, believe me). A wool coat's warmth comes from the density of the wool and it comes with some trade-offs.
jimmythefish
It's too short. Look for brands that come in tall like Eddie Bauer, if that's available in the UK.
fshgrl
Yes, it's the fit that's the problem. A jacket sized S/M/L/XL is never going to fit you as well as something that's made for your approximate measurements and/or capable of being altered by a tailor. Military surplus will be your best bang-for-buck here. A pea coat will suit you just fine.
sportbucket
This is actually one of those times where charity shops (esp. in the stockbroker belt) or one of London's http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/in-the-know/london-shopping/9163197/London-designer-second-hand-clothes-shops.html may provide better pickings than M&S, especially at your budget. I got a not-terrible overcoat for that price from Burton about a decade ago, but the high street chains aren't great for this any more. As tealcake says, you will get a bit of ride-up on an tailored overcoat if you raise your arms above horizontal, no matter what; peacoats are a little more accommodating than suit-coats, but not hugely. (And the Royal Navy isn't as good for surplus or used coats as its US equivalent.)
holgate
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