How do you make the switch from graphite to steel?
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I recently bought some new Titleist AP2 Irons, and these are steel shafts. The only problem is that I played graphite all my life. The thing is with graphite shafts, you take a sweeping attack with the irons. I am not used to steel. The thing is, that I'm Messing up with my driver with a steel shaft like attack angle. Is there any way or especially any drills that can let me hit down with my irons with my steel shafts, and a way or drill that can make me keep my sweeping motion with my driver? Any things are needed. Please Help!
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Answer:
Dalton, the shafts should not effect your swing pattern unless you have changed the flex. The shaft composition effects impact. You do not say what type of driver you have but it sounds like you should not fool with your swing with this club too much, iffy answer here. AP 2 IRONS are great clubs but they are designed for a skilled to highly skilled player, someone who is seriously trying to up their game. This club gets maximum performance with a ball then divot strike. You are trying to detail your impact polnt with this club. This impact philosophy may require a change in your swing to a steeper angle of your swing, less sweeping,more down to the ball. The AP 2 IS A PRECISE ATTACK GOLF CLUB! Steeper descent to impact.
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Other answers
agree with mary graphite is lighter making you feel like your sweeping. the heavier steel is, i guess, lagging too far behind now, but without more details on your miss can not really help in general irons need a more vertical takeaway than a driver so the right shoulder needs to be higher at address so to sweep the driver simply lower the right shoulder and take the club back low
brenda st
I had borrowed clubs and suffered I found the clubs heavy and had to slow down my swing and consciencely turn my wrists and swing thru. 9 degrees kinda hard to hit.
Robert
practice.
92gsxr750
The true difference between graphite and steel is the weight. On average, graphite is lighter than steel. To maintain equal swing weights between the two variants, graphite is made ~1" longer (depends on the manufacturer, really). This is done because it's cheaper to add extra length than buy separate tools and dies to create heavier-weighted heads specifically for graphite-shafted models... which aren't sold in the same quanitites as their steel brethern. The catch to that is, steel can now be offered as light as 75g, basically as light as any graphite offering. You've always had the potential to hit down on the ball with graphite shafts... they're beefed up in the tip section to accomodate that ideal "ball-then-turf" contact. Graphite does have one little benefit: it's natural vibration-dampening properties. That can be overcome with steel shafts, however: Sensicore or ProSoft (or fast-food straws with weather-stripping wrapped around it, which is what Sensicore really is) inserts can be placed inside the shaft at the grip end. The trick to hitting down is to have some type of feedback. Place a book, board, or something that will make a noise (but not hurt you... well, it could if you're into really negative feedback) behind the ball, roughly inline with your trailing foot. Swing the club, but don't hit the object. Your hands will do a good job on their own as regards to the release of the club, but this extra "oomph" can help. As far as your driver is concerned, it's all the same. The real difference is where the ball is relative to your stance. The ball is played forward with a driver, off your left (for RH's) instep... that alone will allow you to naturally sweep the ball off the tee. Remember: it's easiest to have one swing for the 13 clubs (putter excluded) than it is to have 13 swings for all 13 clubs.
green_lantern66
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