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Have you heard of a boat maker named national marine in Miami FL?

I have a 1988 22' Stingray that I just bought and it is my first boat. I have a 454 w/ Thunderbolt ignition an?

  • I have a 1988 22' Stingray that I just bought and it is my first boat. I have a 454 w/ Thunderbolt ignition and power steering. I was out on lake for 4 days, acidentally drained the battery with the bilge pump on overnight. My brother, who has his own boat for several years now, had a portable power pack and I used it to jump my boat and start it. Before turning the ignition to fire it up I gave it gas, but I believe now that I did it incorrectly : I put it in gear to give it gas that way because I didn't realize there was a throttle-only button on the throttle handle. I did that twice before starting it. Then when I turned the ignition on and went to start it, it popped through the carbuerator and turned over. A second later there was a high-pitched squealing that was loud and sounded BAD. I turned it off immediately, since I'd never heard that before and it really did sound bad. It had been starting and running perfectly all week and ever since I bought it up to the drained battery incident. Previous to the battery drain, I had never started it that way(in and out of gear then back to neutral twice, to give it gas before I turned the key). I brought the boat home and put it on a trickle charge until it said it was fully charged. Then I hooked up the hose to the muffs, connected them to the outdrive correctly, and fired it up again. This time with the throttle-only button, I gave it some gas in the neutral position and it fired up fine and sounded great for about 10 seconds and then got the same loud high-pitched squealing noise again. Can you help me out??? I've worked on big blocked Chevy's all my life but never marine. To the best of my knowledge, squealing didn't sound like it was internal, but I don't want to run it that way long enough to find out in case I'm wrong. Could it be that by putting it in and out of gear twice to throttle it got me stuck between forward gear and neutral in the throttle cables? I really need some help with this. I know I screwed up by throttling the boat that way before starting it, but the boat was running absolutely PERFECTLY in everyway up to the dead battery incident and I am perplexed. Boat only has 320 original hours and is in really amazing shape. Any knowledgable advice/info would be very much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

  • Answer:

    Check the Alt Belt and see if it's loose.In neutral see the the prop spins free (engine off)

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if you are truly experienced, you should know what a belt squeal sounds like. but, since you didnt say it wasnt that sound, i'd start there. with the drained battery, your alternator would be doing its best to put out max power, that could be what got the belt started. and i would not be suprised if belt dressing was used to shut the belt up long enough to sell the boat...... with the motor off, pumping the throttle with it in gear or not shouldnt make any difference. it shouldnt be able to even crank without being in nuetral though, if it does, fix that before it causes an accident, possible a severe injury when the prop begins spinning with somebody near it (shouldnt even attempt to start a motor with somebody near prop to begin with though). also, unless you have the records to KNOW when things were last done, get a full 100 hour service, with impeller change, NOW. fluids, tune-up, inspection and tightening of things like belts and hoses, and the impeller. boat motors like your have 2 pumps for coolant. one is mounted on front of the motor, just like on any gm v8 you have worked with, that is called the circulation pump. the part that can correctly be called a water pump on that motor is the impeller. impellers are rubber star shaped objects (number and size of "points" can vary). if you know motors at all, you might understand the differences in a rotary engine, or be capable of learnign them quickly. an impeller functions similiar to a rotor in a rotary engines "cylinder". as it spins, it uncovers an intake port at the same time the cumbustion chamber expands. this makes it draw ina fresh charge. as it spins around more (skipping compression and power cycles), it uncovers an exhaust port at the same time as the combustion chamber shrinks. since the rotor in this case is made of rubber, and it must flex in order to stay tight to the cylinder walls at all time in order to pump, and must also flex so it doesnt fall apart when it tries, 100 hours or 3 years. impellers are often under $50, and usually easily DIY (ask how, with info on the drive type and model included, seperately if you wish too). impeller is just as important to your boat as your heart is to you. if you have a problem with your impeller and dont immediately notice it and take correct emergency action, your motor is DEAD from overheating. most common cause of all boat problems is lack of proper maintence. be very on top of getting all the proper things done at the proper time and the motor and drive will LAST.

Cliff

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