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What's a great DJ setup?

Whats the highest powered amp/subwoofer setup I can put in a stock 91' Honda Accord EX?

  • What I mean is, whats the highest amp, like, 800watt? I ask this because I dont want to redo wiring and all that. I just want to max out what I have. I may be able to put a new alternator in, but I prefer not to for the next level up is around 250$. Just a reminder, this is a stock Honda Accord. No beefed up wiring, no beefed up alternator, though I do have a fairly good battery in. Any setup suggestions? Currently I have a 250 watt Pioneer I think, a single 12' R type Alpine, and an alpine CDA 9851 stereo. http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-CDA-9851_W0QQitemZ290130260781QQihZ019QQcategoryZ39750QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Thats the same I have, I send this cause if I can go alot higher using everything but the amp and possible sub, or add another sub, I would prefer it. So I guess theres 2 questions. Whats the max I can go with the reciever. Then, whats the max my car can handle without major upgrade?

  • Answer:

    The size of your amplifier is not directly limited by power output - it really depends on the amplifier's power consumption. Most amplifiers are not very efficient (~40-50%) - they lose lots of energy through heat. I would suggest using a Class D or (even better) a Class BD amplifier. Amplifier with Class D or Class BD topology are very efficient compared to other amps - usually between 70-80%, depending on make/model. I personally use a Rockford Fosgate BD1000.1 which puts out a very solid 1000 watts RMS (used on eBay for $225 including shipping) in my 95 Integra, which has a 90 amp alternator (stock) and a 5 Farad capacitor, and I've never had a problem with my charging system. As far as the 'max you can go with the receiver', I don't really understand the question. Most receivers draw comparable amounts of current because they have small internal amplifiers (~20 watts RMS/channel), so it really depends on what features you want, and what your price range is. The sub amp should be your main concern for power consumption, but you don't need to worry about your deck.

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Short answer. I have a Honda Civic with a 75 amp Alt. stock. The most I can go is 550 watts RMS Class AB amp or 800 watts RMS Class D amp. Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621 You'll need Microsft Excel to use it. See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

sparky3489

The only thing that matters to know what's the max setup you can have will depend on the power supply of your car's alternator and battery. Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing. To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw. A quick way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety. Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier. If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to consider having your alternator rebuilt for higher output — or invest in a high-output aftermarket alternator. Installing a second battery won't help — that only allows you to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. But, remember that any system playing at one-third volume is drawing considerably less current than the same system at three-quarter volume, and may not need a charging system upgrade if the volume levels are kept reasonable. If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it starts to grab current from the battery — not a good thing for your car or your music! Here are a couple of warning signs to look for: your headlights dim in time to the music when you crank it up loud at night; your bass sounds great when you first turn it on, but gets mushy and less powerful within a minute or so.

Mitchell

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