I have two rockford T1 12 inch subs they are 4 Ohms rms 600 watts and max at 1200 what amp would be the best?

Well, Electhro would be right if you had 300 watt RMS subs. Since your subs are 600 watts RMS each, you'll need an amp that's 1200 watts RMS @ 4 ohm or @ 1 ohm depending on how you wire the subs. How you load an amp determines the amount of power out. There is a trade off though, the lower the impedance (ohms) the more power is pushed as well as higher distortion and more heat is generated. The excessive heat will shorten the life of the amp. For best overall performance, it's far better to get a higher powered amp and load it with 4 ohms than a lower powered amp and force it to push more power with a lower impedance (2 or less ohms) load. The other trade off is price. An amp that will handle higher power at 4 ohm will be more expensive. Also, if your total system power is a 1000 watts RMS or more you will need to: 1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator 2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery 3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire. Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail. Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need as well how to set the gain http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621 You'll need Microsft Excel to use it. See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com __________ Ha ha, I laugh at yourpapi. A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. Something to consider...this is an example... To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 500 watts RMS per channel would be 1000 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (1000 watts X 2 = 2000 watts), then divide by the average output voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (2000 divided by 13.8 = 145 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (145 amps divided by 3 = 48 amps). This is an average approximation of current draw and it can go higher. So I would gather between *48 and 72 amperes for this example. The alternator of a: compact car is about 35 amps mid-sized car is about 65-75 amps SUV is about 145 amps Calculate 40% of the amperes of the alternator you have now. This is the average current the car uses when running. Add this number to the approximate average current draw (*48) of the amps you calculate, and you will come up with the mimimum average current required to power the audio system and vehicle.

OKTHIS IS HOW IT GOES. dont listen to the other guys and about the "big 3" thats just a bunch of crap... all you need is a big enough capacitor to power the subs and amp to its best performance. look up kinetik capacitors on ebay theyre perfect for your application as far as your subs go with a memphis 1500.1 M class amp (MCD1500D) http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2614 those are the specs but dont buy it there look around for pricing but its the best for your application it fits perfect wire them down at 2 ohms and its good 2 go