What should I truly be looking at when I want good speakers, woofers, amps? the watts? whats the good stuff?
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Im looking foward to hooking up my car with a really good sound system, Im talking about PREMIUM QUALITY, offcourse Id like Information first to see where to start in case I cant start off with over expensive material, but Im kinda new when it comes to the speakers, woofers, amplifiers..... and Id like to get a good heads up when it comes to buying quality, Ive been looking around for some speakers but I really want to know what Im paying for, when It comes to SPEAKERS what is it I need to check? what "specific quality" in a speaker makes a good souind system, obviously putting a whole system together makes a good sound system but what roll do the speakers specifically play? also what should I look for when It comes to AMPLIFIERS & SUBWOOFERS? Id appretiate the most complete information, I really wanna get in to this, have some knowledge and be able to swap, modify and enhance my sound system later on, Experienced folks are more than welcome to help and would have my appretiation, Thanks.
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Answer:
What should you "LOOK AT"? Not much. Mainly, you should LISTEN. Go to as many stores as possible, listen to as much stuff as possible, see what you like the most. In many cases, the price tag will tell you as much about a piece of equipment as the specifications that are offered. Good quality full range speakers are critical to a good sounding stereo system. It's a shame so many people get into this hobby by buying a hugenormous sub, 1000w+ amp, a random pre-fab box and think they have a competition sound system. The full range speakers carry the majority of the music signal, and if those aren't good, your overall sound won't be either. And it doesn't just take nice speakers. It takes a good quality installation and ample power. You don't need the most expensive amps to get excellent sound quality, but you do need adequate power. Good sound can be achieved with as little as ~300w rms, but in today's market power is cheap and people are commonly running 500w+ on a sub or subs with 200+ on speakers. After years of experimentation I have ended up with a high power 6.5" component set in front, stock rear speakers for "rear fill", and one 12" subwoofer in the trunk. It's in a big box, slot ported, tuned to 28hz. The components get 250w rms on each side (this is unusually high power for front speakers), and the sub is driven with 1000w rms. To me it's the perfect blend of affordability, simplicity, and the ability to play loud while retaining good sound quality.
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Other answers
Where you get a quality system is in the little details .... as in no cheap wiring and a quality box ... as for quality brands there are alot of them ... just know in car audio you basically get what you pay for ... as for brands on amp Rockford fosgate id my prefrence and the older the better ... Subs Diamond audio (quality and loud ) Jl audio (quality but pricey) Sundown (need power ) Incriminator audio Memphis audio Many many more just depends on cash your willing to spend Fi audio digital designes
doct101
kicker subs sound good and are cheap for the quality.i would get a american legacy amp(3000 watts) with 2 subs (12 inch), cause if you get the 1200 watt max subs, you would have some extra so you wouldn't fry the amp.
Kyle Dinwiddie
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Travis
Following are three separate categories of car audio product name brands. A brand may appear in more than one category. For example, Alpine appears in both the entry-level and high quality categories because some of their products fall into each. Some car audio enthusiasts may disagree with individual placements in the categories. For example, I know of people who would say that Visonik and Boss Audio, perhaps even Power Acoustik and Hifonics belongs in the Brands To Avoid category. But I think that SOME of their products are worth what they cost. A 4th category would be "Competition Level Products". Several of the brand names in both Entry Level Products and High Quality Products have some specific products that would be considered competition level. The "Brands To Avoid" doesn't mean that any of the products in the category are substandard, defective, or otherwise undesirable. Most are there because it isn't possible to find accurate and believable specifications. Many of the products may perform well, but at lower than advertised power output or power handling capabilities. Some are built with cheaper components and with little attention to build quality. Others place more emphasis on marketing rather than building a consistently reliable product. Some just want to get your money, by whatever means. The brand name SoundStorm sounds a lot like their much better competitor, SoundStream. Similar deception can be applied to Kenford - Kenwood and Rockwood - Rockford-Fosgate. Finally, some of the brand names have a full line of products, head units, amplifiers, equalizers (or sound processors), speakers, subwoofers, and accessories. Some may have 2 or 3 products, but not a full line. Some brand names are owned by larger "parent" companies that may have other businesses as well as car audio. Many have home audio or home theater products as well as car audio. 1) Brands To Avoid American Pro, Audiobank, Blackmore Mobile Electronics, Blitz, DHD, Diesel Audio, Kenford, Kole Audio, Legacy, Majestic, Performance Teknique, Phase Linear, Pyle, Pyramid, Rockwood, Sherwood, SPL, Solid Audio, Sound Storm, Street Edge, Ultra Linear, XFile Audio, XXX 2) Entry Level Products Alphasonik, Alpine, Alto Mobile USA, Alumapro, Ample Audio, Audiobahn, Audiopipe, Audiovox, Autotek, Bazooka, Blaupunkt, Boss, Bostwick, Cadence, Cerwin Vega, Clarion, Clif Designs, Concept, Coustic, Crossfire, Crunch, Cutting Edge Audio, DB Drive, Diablo Audio, Digital Audio, Digital Designs, Dual, Dub Mag Audio, Elevation Audio, Emerson, Harrison Labs, Hifonics, Hollywood Sound, Infinity, Interfire, JBL, Jensen, JVC, Kenwood, Kicker, Kove Audio, Lanzar, Lightning Audio, MA Audio, Matrxx Audio, MB Quart, Memphis, MTX, Niche Audio, Phoenix Gold, Pioneer, Planet Audio, Polk Audio, Power Acoustik, Powerbase, Profile, Rockford Fosgate, Sanyo, Scosche, Sony, SoundStream, Swiss Audio, US Acoustics, Visonik, Xsite 3) High Quality Products A/D/S/, Adire Audio, Alpine, American Bass, Ascendant Audio, AudioControl, Audison, Avionixx, Boston Acoustics, Brax, CDT Audio, Clarion, Critical Mass, Crossfire, Crystal, Diamond Audio, Digital Designs, Directed, DLS, Dynaudio, Earthquake, Elemental Designs, Eclipse, Focal, Fusion, Genesis, Helix, Hifonics, Image Dynamics, Incriminator Audio, JL Audio, Kenwood, Kicker, Lanzar, MA Audio, Massive Audio, MB Quart, McIntosh, Memphis, Milbert, Morel, MTX, Nakamichi, Orion, OZ Audio, PHD Audiophile Sound System, Phase Evolution, Phoenix Gold, Pioneer, Powerbass USA, Precision Power, QAS, RE Audio, Rockford-Fosgate, Seas Lotus, Sinfoni, Treo Engineering, TRU Technology, Tube Driver Blue, US Amps, Xtant, Zapco
PimpMyRide
ohm levels on you subs and amps good rcas and speaker wire and good amp kit good grounding quality equipment not cheap,(speakers) if it cost less than 50$ then ignore it, subs 100$ or less id ignore it when running your wires, run rcas down one side of car and power line down other side. when grounding scrap all paint away from area where you ground amp settings for sub, on gain dont go higher than half way, crossover should be set to 80herts or lower, dont use bass boost and if u do dont go any higher than 1/3 way up. sub box: sub boxs are very important from producing good bass notes, so dont go with the cheapest box for quality sound id definitly buy a eq. kicker mtx alpine pioneer infinity boston acoutics rockford fosgate polk jl aduio
Audio Fan
Don't get ANYTHING this guy just told you to get. If I were you, I'd get: Sundown audio, Skar, SSA, or PSI subwoofers. For amplifiers, I would go with Hifonics BRZ line. GREAT bang for the buck. For highs/mids, I would go Focal. Can't get much better than them. Always remember, name brands aren't everything. No matter what the brand, there is ALWAYS going to be something better out there. As far as Kicker, I'm not sure why everyone still hugging their nuts. Their sound quality (to me) is BARELY above sony. JL audio is one of the best quality well known name brand subs, IF you feel like getting one of your boys chopped off in exchange for a single piece of their equipment. Do some research, check out some websites.
beer101
ill give you mu opinion. JL Audio - if you have the money then you should think about these guys. The 12w6v2 is known to be one of thee very best sounding woofers. 'the price really isn't that bad. Kicker - Avoid l7 Rockford Fosgate - im a fan of the new punch line but stray from the power line. You could think about Rockford Fosgate amps - again, one of thee very best to ever do it,. JL - again top of the line audio Orion HCCA amps - not cheap Kicker amps arent all that bad i guess Kenwood component speakers - infinity
Marlo
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