Is it hard to install car dvd built in headrests?

Please tell me what I'll need to get LOUD bass in my Car! Budget of 700 bucks.?

• I'll start by saying I know absolutly NOTHING about audio equpiment so I'm hoping one of you guys (or gals :)) can help explain to me what I'll need to get my trunk pounding! What I have: 2004 Nissan Maxima S.E *Currently I have the stock BOSE audio system which I'm about to replace with Pyle aftermarket: 7" Double DIN Touchscreen TFT-LCD DVD/USB/MP3 Car Stereo Receiver w/ Bluetooth & Built-In Navigation. *What I'm looking for: 2500 watt amp *What I would like to know: Will this have my trunk pounding? What speakers should I purchase to replace my Bose stocked one'. *I have one on each door and two by my rear window* Everything I'll need to install. If anyone is familiar with my car, audio system, or anything I mentioned above please reply. I'll need a response in lamens terms lol. I'm in the chicagoland area so if you think you can help and you're nearby, leave an email address if you'd like so I can contact you! :) Thanks in advance guys!

• Answer:

  ok well $700 for 2500w isn't really enough. if you could stretch that to about $1300 then that would be great for 2500w. (im guessing you want a 2500w RMS amp?) so first of all 2500w RMS is a large drain on any car's battery and alternator. So if it were me, i would install a second alternator at about 150 amps. That is about 2000w @14v. (150*14.) so you could get away with that. Second thing you will need is of course an amp. Any Class D mono amplifier will do great for your budget, just look around for one you like the look of, and is cheap. Because they all use pretty much the same circuitry in class D amps. (thats why they are cheap.) so at the moment you have an alternator and an amp. this will set you back around $150 for an alternator, and about $200 for an amp. next is the sub. Now i recommend FI car audio, or Kicker. I have had a long running history with Kicker and they have never falied me, as has FI. and both make very reasonably priced subs for under $500. the brand new FI SP4 that ranges from 12 - 18" is 2500w RMS (perfect for your setup) and is a great sub for daily pounding. or even the BTL series which is meant for extreme SPL applications and will definately fit your needs, these are around $600. equally kicker make the L7 15" which is 1000w RMS, But still pounds very hard. MSRP is @ $499. finally you will need some 4 guage wiring all round, and some Rca cables, aswell as some kind of car audio battery or a high output car battery. Now of course you will need an enclosure for these subs. The SP4 has a max rated enclosure at 8CUFT. the BTL series has a max of 10cuft. The kicker has a max of 6cuft. Now you can make the box yourself which i do - it's not hard, you just need some 18mm / 25mm (3/4" and 1") MDF... but you do need to have a reasonably good knowledge of speakers, tuning frequency and the ability to stick pieces of fibreboard together! but you can always buy a box if this doesn't appeal to you, however these are expensive which is why i always build mine, and it also offers you great customisation. If you do want to build the enclosure yourself you need to consider sealed and ported enclosures. And the dimensions of the box need to coincide with how many cuft the box will be. Obviosly the bigger the box, the lower the bass.to convert the box dimensions into cubic feet, you need to measure the outside of the box out, then work out the area (WxDxH) in inches and divide it vby 1728 (12x12x12, because 12x12x12) = 1 cubic foot. or you can just buy one for about $100-200. So to conclude: 150 amp alternator ($150 approx) 2500W RMS mono/bass/bridgable amplifier ($200 approx) FI Car Audio SP4 or BTL N2 ($500 / $600 approx) Car Audio High Output Battery / High output battery ($300 / $200 approx) Wiring Kit or about 15 metres of 4guage wire + RCA leads ($60 - 80 approx) Enclosure for subwoofer ($200) or build it yourself!! of course you may be wondering... oh my ** God!!! so much to take in, so much to spend!!! well that's what i thought at first. but dont let it put you off.... also i found from experience that asking questions on the internet wasn't a fraction as helpful as going into a car audio dealer who can talk to you face-face and tell you what you want and need, and what you dont. hope this helps!!! Zach Nelms ADDITIONAL: you shouldn't need any speakers on the parcel shelf if you have a subwoofer in the boot. especially if the sub is as rediculious as an FI BTL. however for door speakers i suggest something from MTX as they excel in the sound quality department of car audio. Along with Alpine. If i were you i would just buy a set of coaxial 6x9" or 6" drivers. Component speakers offer slightly better crossovers and therefore provide better sound quality, but they are not as easy to install. you will also need another amp. you can just wire the speaker into the stock amplifier, but you are not going to get more than about 50w (max) per door. Also the resistance of the speakers will not be the same as the original speakers, and the amp will therefore not be able to cope. also the amp won be very good quality either if it is stock. So treat yourslef to a 2/4 channel amplifier from kenwood or any make for that matter... you can get yourself a good 4 channel amp for about $150 that will have about 300/400w rms @ about 2 ohms. that should be more than enough for 2 pairs of speakers. And you can power the amp using the battery amp config' I gave above (NB: remember to always connect rechargable batteries in parallel - otherwise they catch fire and blow up) good speakers from MTX or Alpine come in at about $80 a pair, plus the amp at about $150.